Chesapeake Bay and the Atlantic Ocean

Day 305 – 311 , May 11 – 17, 2021, Solomans Island, MD

Solomons Island Yacht Club is a private club that accepted us as guests. A small but very friendly and charming marina. We were there for the flag ceremony and blessing of the fleet opening their season. The club is perfectly located for exploring the town with more great restaurants and shopping in the area than we could totally take in. We were joined here by fellow Texas cruisers and Gold Loopers, Terry & Dorothy Godbold on “Magic” and greatly enjoyed their company.

On our way up Chesapeake Bay from Deltaville to Solomons Island, we crossed another state line from Virginia into Maryland. Along the way we passed this adorable lighthouse, one of several dotting the bay.

We loved being guests at the Solomons Island Yacht Club. The members take great pride in the club as they should.

This church was like something from a storybook. The lovely garden was the entrance to a very nearby favorite restaurant, Island Hideaway.

The state dessert of Maryland, Smith Island Cake; to die for. Enjoyed with our cruising buddies from Rockport/Austin, TX, Dorothy and Terry (aka Captain Crusty). Way too much great food and great restaurants at Solomons Island.

One of the great joys of cruising is the regular change of scenery as we move from one location to another.

As much as we were enjoying Solomons, at daybreak we followed Magic and headed into the rising sun then north for Annapolis.

Day 312 – 315, May 18 – 21, Annapolis, MD

What can a boater say about Annapolis? It is certainly a mecca for our boating cult, home of the US Naval Academy, rich in US history, and devoted to all things nautical. We first docked in “Ego Alley”, a section of the harbor which is known for boats cruising up and down to see and be seen – you have to do it ONCE!! – as well as allowing lots of foot traffic to see the boats. We docked here for several days then spent our last night in Annapolis in the mooring field which is another unique experience.

Docked on Ego Alley behind our friends on Magic so that we could see and be seen. Also, prime access to the city and historic district.

The marina area is a National Historic District with beautifully maintained and restored homes and businesses. So much to see in easy walking distance.

We wisely took a guided tour in a golf cart. The guide was very knowledgeable. The cart made it comfortable as well as very visible. With just the four of us, we were able to stop and go as we pleased. We also learned so much – Annapolis was the capitol of the US for 8 months, Geo Washington resigned his commission as General of the revolutionary forces in that building, it is the oldest legislative building still in use. The building and grounds are lovely. Unfortunately, we could not go inside but took in all we could.

In 1950, the US Treasury Dept created replicas of the Liberty Bell and gifted to each state. The cannon was brought from England in 1634 for a fort to protect the harbor.

A boat enthusiast’s dream with a constant parade from the sleekest sailboats to the historic. We were mesmerized just sitting and watching it all.

As much as we had enjoyed the touring, restaurants, and shopping of Annapolis, we were still delighted to move out of the marina and on to a mooring ball for our last night in the city. While a marina provides the comforts of access to land facilities and electric, we love being at anchor with the relaxed feeling of truly floating on the water. It was our first experience with a mooring ball which is essentially an anchor already placed by the marina which we just attach to – so much easier than anchoring.

After enjoying many of the fine restaurants available, our last evening was a quite dinner on the boat as we watched the sunset behind the skyline with the capitol building.

The next morning we were off to North East, Maryland. As we were pulling out at 8:00 am, we heard the Naval Academy playing Reveille then the Stars Spangled Banner over the speaker system. A perfect ending for our visit there.

Day 316 – 329, May 22 – June 4, North East, MD

North East is not usually on the Great Loop as it is at the furthest north point of the Chesapeake Bay and slightly north of where the more usual route exits the bay via the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal. I had told old friends who live in North East (Vic and Vicki Krohn) that we would be coming thru the area to arrange a possible visit. They insisted we look into making a stop at the North East River Yacht Club. We wanted a spot to lay low during Memorial Day weekend and North East looked like a good spot not too far off the path. We were so happy with that decision as we fell in love with the area and the local boating community. As a plus, we were joined there by our buddies on Magic.

Our route from Annapolis to North East, MD. Loved the hospitality of the North East River Yacht Club.

A beautiful setting. The yacht club is managed by members who are all boaters themselves as well. Could not be more helpful and cordial. On site is a great bar and restaurant.

Some wildlife is more welcome than others. Bugs are pretty much a continuous problem on a boat. We had our first major encounter with “midgees” Good news they don’t bite – much – but they are a nuisance. They only live 24 hours but their little carcasses hang around. A good hose down would get rid of most and run off the live ones at least for a short time. One day during a thunderstorm, these two sweet little birds took shelter on our lee side.

Don’t let him tell you he ever retired from the Engine Room

We tackled two major repairs while in North East. We had an ongoing problem with the aft head (toilet). We had pretty much rebuilt it and the only possibility left on the troubleshooting list was a clogged line between the head and the holding tank. Over time calcification builds up in the lines and starts to catch the stuff that is supposed to move through. I won’t go into a lot of details but an undesirable job to say the least and one that will cost a lot to have done by a marina even though it does not require particular technical skill. We decided to take it on ourselves. Bought the new hose (a much improved new technology) while we were in Annapolis; performed the replacement while in North East. Very proud of ourselves and it turned out to be even easier than we thought it would be. About an hour later, Peter discovered a leak in the coolant system pump. After several days of searching for a replacement pump, we turned it over to a professional with better access to sources and got ‘er done. I think he was disappointed when he showed up but Peter had already taken out the old one so all that was needed was a quick install of the new. What was originally planned to be a four day stop to let the weekenders have the water over Memorial Day weekend turned into two weeks due to weather and repairs.

Along with the crew from Magic, Terry and Dorothy, we made a trip to Philadelphia by car. It is probably the only significant US city we had never visited. The history and architecture are not to be missed. Worth a trip to Philly if for no other reason than to walk the grounds of Independence Hall. The sacred grounds where both the Declaration of Independence and the US Constitution were debated and adopted. The tours were severely limited due to covid restrictions and booked way in advance so we did not go inside but were able to walk the grounds. Still gives goosebumps and brings tears to the eyes when one thinks of the great men who showed such courage and commitment to freedom and liberty.

So many sites. The house where Betsy Ross stitched the first American flag. A monument to Benjamin Franklin crafted from pennies donated by school children.

So many special sights to see. We love taking tours on the open buses as we always see sites and hear stories we would not otherwise take in.

Can’t go to Philadelphia without stopping for a cheesesteak sandwich. We were very happy to share most of our time in North East including the trip to Philly with Terry and Dorothy of Magic and fellow Texans

Regrets: I rarely express regrets. That said, I regret we did not get photos of another driving trip we made to see the towns of Rockhall and St. Michael’s in Maryland. Also, even though we had the pleasure of spending lots of time together. No photos with the Krohn’s, Vic and Vicki, who gave us great recommendations, shared generously from their garden and chickens, and spent lots of quality time together.

Day 330 – 333, June 5 – 8, Delaware City, DE

With repairs completed, we left North East and the Chesapeake Bay via the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal headed for Delaware City located where the canal meets Delaware Bay. The plan was a day or two waiting for good weather conditions. Delaware Bay is a fairly large bay with strong currents, open to wind from the Atlantic, and pretty much no place to stop until we reach Cape May on the Atlantic Coast. The channel coming into the marina at Delaware City is “tricky” especially at low tide, and we managed to touch bottom. We heard a noise that was disconcerting so we decided to do a quick haul and check that everything was okay with the propellers. Of course, this decision was made on Saturday evening and the yard for hauling was closed Sunday and Monday, meaning our stay would be delayed thru Tuesday. We vowed to never let these delays be a problem but instead just part of the adventure and journey. Luckily, there was no damage.

Delaware would be our 11th state since departing Texas in Nov 2019.

The C&D Canal was busy with commercial traffic, one of the busiest in the world. At the end of the cruising, we were rewarded with another special view off our deck.

Always enjoy seeing the boat in a new location. The new construction of townhomes in the background was a pleasant sign of prosperity.

A regular activity: taking in the sights and exploring the local area.

Got a kick out of this blacksmith shop. Unusual.

We got a laugh out of the marina’s humorous nod to these highly political times.

When we arrived in Virginia in early April, we decided to try our hand at gardening on the deck with some flowers for color and a few herbs. They are still rewarding us with blooms and flourishing two months later.

Day 334 – 337, June 9 – 12, Cape May, NJ

Our journey from Delaware City to Cape May was approached with caution. Word is Delaware Bay can be a bit hazardous. Wind and waves from the Atlantic can come straight up the bay and there is virtually no place to escape those once a boat is committed to the trip. We were fortunate that our our travel day had very little wind or waves. It was hazy with limited visibility but we had radar and could actually see well enough that it wasn’t an issue. We passed into New Jersey, the 12th state on our list.

Our path thru the bay and our “view”. If you squint, you may see the line where the gray sky meets the gray water.

The setting of South Jersey Marina was like something out of a movie. We loved being there. During the weekend, those balconies and docks were filled with people partying and enjoying being at the shore.

We braved the rain to get out and about and explore. The milder climate allows for lots of blooming plants we don’t get in the warmer, drier climate of central Texas.

The marina provided a shuttle service to the historic downtown area of Washington Square where the street was converted to a pedestrian mall with tons of great shops and restaurants.

We always enjoy walking the streets to see the variety of homes, churches, gardens.

No trip to New Jersey would be complete without a visit to their famous Jersey Shore.

Day 338 – 339, June 13 – 14, Atlantic City, NJ

The Atlantic Ocean! We had glimpsed the big water as we crossed some of the major bays and sounds but this would be it – our first time into the actual ocean on our own. We waited for just the right weather and headed out from Cape May toward Atlantic City. It was a beautiful day and the travel was quite pleasurable.

Goodbye Cape May. We were charmed. Hello Atlantic Ocean. We are respectful.

Yvonne took a turn at the helm. Atlantic City presents an impressive skyline from the water.

We took a shuttle bus and visited the famous Boardwalk. The property names in the Monopoly game are named after the streets, etc. in Atlantic City. It was fun watching for them. Always a delight strolling a waterfront and people watching.

The marina was named for a state park but was managed by the Golden Nugget hotel. It was a very comfortable marina with lots of amenities. Probably the widest fairways between the docks ever. Many fine restaurants in the hotel but they had only recently re-opened following covid restrictions and most had limited service hours. We enjoyed the stop but took the first good weather day to get back into the Atlantic and head for NYC.

Day 340 – 342, June 15 – 16, Staten Island, NY

Another leg into the Atlantic. We had scheduled a stop at the Manasqua inlet. Word is the currents there are outrageous making docking an unbelievable challenge. As we neared the inlet the travel on the Atlantic was very comfortable so we decided to go for it and headed on toward Staten Island. Congratulated ourselves on the decision as it was a very long day but a pleasant trip.

On Staten Island, we were guests at the Great Kills Yacht Club. Cannot say enough good things about this place, an ideal stop for loopers. The dockmaster is a Looper and harbor host. He was most gracious as were any members we encountered. Developing a special place in our hearts for these member-managed yacht clubs and their hospitality. Will definitely seek them out as we venture on.

We had met the crew of Salty Dogs while in Atlantic City and traveled with them up the coast and into GKYC. They were great company.

Atlantic City to Staten Island “outside”. Rounding Sandy Hook and crossing the state line into New York, our 13th state. Lower New York Bay gave us a view of the Verrazano Bridge and New York City skyline.

We had a hard time pulling ourselves out of Frank & Sal’s Italian market. Amazing selection of produce, groceries, and prepared foods. We were limited by how much we were willing to carry the half mile or so back to the boat. Our last morning we were visited by this family of swans as we prepared to leave; so beautiful.

Day 343, June 17, A Milestone Day – Passing the Statue of Liberty

Reaching the Statue of Liberty is a milestone for anyone traveling America’s Great Loop. Seeing the statue from one’s own boat is quite an emotional event. It is the symbol of liberty and freedom, not just for American’s, but for all people. For boaters it is also the point where saltwater coastal travel ends and the freshwater rivers and lakes begin.