So much to be said and written about The Erie Canal. Built between 1817 and 1825, the original canal covered 363 miles from Albany to Buffalo. It was the longest artificial waterway and greatest public works project in North America. It put the state of New York on the map economically and provided a means for new immigrants to move westward. It was enlarged several times but the canal we traveled is essentially the original. In 2016, it was declared a National Historic Landmark. We feel it a great privilege to have the opportunity to travel an historic landmark via our own boat.
We will only travel the eastern half as there are bridges beyond that too low for us to get under.
Sections of the canal are manmade channels while other parts are thru the Mohawk River. We will pass thru 22 locks between Waterford and our turn off onto the Oswego Canal.
Day 355, June 30, Schenectady, NY
Our first six locks on the canal, Locks 2-7, then an overnight stop at a really cute little marina – Schenectady Yacht club – right on the canal.
We met the crew from “Into the Mystic” who had been there for a few days for minor repairs. Lo and behold, they are from Freeport, Texas, right in our home area, so of course a good conversation about ‘back home’ ensued.
The photo on the right is a guard gate used to hold back flow of the river/canal as needed. We had hoped to get more photos thru the locks but were too busy to do so.
Day 356 – 357, July 1 – 2, Amsterdam, NY
After Locks 8, 9 and 10, we decided to rest for a couple of days at our next stop, also the weather was not the best. We managed to get a spot on the wall at Amsterdam. A bit of a climb to get off the boat and a bit lively at times as the water ski boats demonstrated their skills close by, but we had power and WiFi (sort of) so life is good.
There is also a small restaurant on site which was good and that is always a plus. Unfortunately the fireworks and the live music that had been scheduled were cancelled due to heavy rains being forecast.
“Into the Mystic” was also on the dock wall and helped us get tied up – Texans looking out for each other.
We were greatly intrigued by a beautiful pedestrian walkway across the river. It featured plaques with just enough of the history of the area to inform, beautiful plantings and outstanding civic artwork.
The sign with “May Peace Prevail on Earth” was translated into 7 other languages. The concrete on the right is a piece of the towers after 9/11. It is a memorial to the event, very simple and tastefully done. As I recall, it is the only such piece on display outside of NYC.
Sadly, a city that had once been vibrant with light industry and transportation of goods, is now a minor tourist stop with a very weak economy. I found myself wondering what it would take to bring her back. We did appreciate what the community had provided aesthetically.
Day 358, July 3, St. Johnsville, NY
Much of traveling the canal is just peaceful cruising through lovely, quiet countryside; sometimes many miles without signs of others.
After Locks 11-15, we stopped at St. Johnsville for the night. There was a new harbor master there who was very pleasant and helpful and Peter had a long chat with the local police force of one cop who couldn’t believe at first that we had come all the way from Texas. He said with a smile that we must have taken a wrong turn someplace.
Day 359, July 4, Little Falls, NY
A short day through Locks 16 and 17 brought us to Little Falls. “Lucky Me” and “Sea C Rider” arrived at the dock later in the day. An impromptu docktails session ensued which was much enjoyed and gave us Loopers a chance to compare notes. Most of the Loopers we have met so far are going the full length of the Erie all the way to Buffalo whereas our height restricts our options and requires we take a different route into Lake Ontario.
While sitting on the deck, other loopers walked up and joined us, then a few more. Before we knew it, there was a party going on.
Earlier in the day we unloaded our bikes and went on part of the Canalway Trail back to Lock 17 which is the deepest lock on the Erie Canal. It was interesting to see it from ‘shore side’. The Canalway Trail is a 360 mile east-west trail from Buffalo to Albany and is part of the newly completed Empire State Trail which also extends north-south from New York City to Lake Champlain.
It was nice to be able to use our bikes for once. Not every place we stop has docks which allow us to easily get them off the boat. Being e-bikes they are a bit heavier than the normal bike. This is also the first time in a while when we have had both bikes working. One bike – Yvonne’s – has always worked fine but the other one has had several electronic issues and even though the supplier has been responsive all the spares have to come from – you guessed it – China!!
Day 360 – 362, July 5 – 7, Brewerton, NY
Did a long day from Little Falls to Brewerton, 61 miles. We usually like to keep the daily run under 50 miles as that allows us to arrive at our destination mid afternoon and allows a few hours to explore the place. We had intended to stop at Sylvan Beach but when we arrived the place was crazy with small craft and with no room at the dock, so we kept going across Lake Oneida to Brewerton where it was much more calm. We have a policy to avoid travel on weekends or holidays, but sometimes having good travel weather preempts this.
On our way, we traveled with two other loop boats and made our first lock with down elevation. These seem much easier as the water flowing out is more gentle and doesn’t affect the motion of the boat as dramatically as the inflow of water on the up bound locks.
Brewerton was a good stop especially if repairs were needed. Brewerton Boat works, Ess-Kay and Winter Harbor all have good facilities and the winter storage facility at Winter Harbor looks to be first class and has a good reputation.
We met up with several other looper boats and went ashore for a meal the first night, walking the short distance across the bridge to the restaurant. We had to wait for a table because like so may restaurants at the moment, they were short staffed. It was a good meal and even better company so it was worth the wait. The second night we walked to a Pizza place nearby and were joined by other loopers from Ess-Kay.
We also got our bikes down again and went for a ride around the neighborhood. As usual we found some beautiful houses hidden away bit. Very nice area to live in, as is most of the canal so far, if one forgets that there is a winter!
Day 363 – 364, July 8 – 9, Clay, NY
After Brewerton we continued west on the Erie Canal first making a stop only a short distance away at Winter Harbor where we filled up with fuel and used the pump out. Fuel here was $2.79 a gallon which was the cheapest we had seen for quite some while. Luckily, we had filled up a few months ago when the prices were even lower and carrying over 1100 gallons on board have not needed to take any fuel for a while.
We had heard raves about a marina only a few miles further on called Pirates Cove, so we decided to have a short day and pulled in there. What a gem. The owners were so helpful and friendly we wished that we had skipped Brewerton and come directly here. Next time for sure. Reasonable rates, friendly staff, a courtesy car and WiFi that actually worked – what more could we ask for? We also met up again with Larry and Mary on Living the Dream which was a plus. The owners even joined us for Happy Hour.
Shortly after leaving Pirates Cove the Erie Canal continued west but we could not follow it as there would be lower bridges we could not pass under due to our height, so we hung a right and proceeded on the alternate route up the Oswego Canal towards Lake Ontario.
Day 365 – 366, July 10 – 11, Oswego, NY
We arrived at Oswego after transiting 24 miles and the seven locks on the Oswego Canal. The river was in full flood after the recent rains and there was a lot of debris which we had to dodge at times.
We tied up at a wall in the “marina” – it was pretty rolly but at least it had power and was also pretty close to town.
After settling in we met with the crew from Living the Dream whom we had followed up the Oswego Canal and together toured Fort Oswego and the museum. The Fort had a very interesting history passing back and forth from British to French to British to American hands in various wars. Peter thought he had heard the last of the Americans defeating the British in the American Revolution then came the Great Lakes and focus on the Americans defeating the British in the War of 1812.
Learned a lot of history along the way. There was one ship full of refugees from the holocaust that was brought to the US and housed at Ft. Oswego. Enjoyed touring the small museum and watching a video of the story.
Waiting for a weather window is part of the game, so we expect to be here for a couple of days at least before we head east towards the 1000 Islands area. We counted ourselves very fortunate to get to this point. Heavy rains in western New York state resulting in the locks on both the Erie and Oswego canals being closed for varying lengths of time. Some Loopers were stranded in some pretty out of the way places where they planned to be one night and ended up for ten. It is advisable to get through the Great Lakes and on to the rivers no later than the end of September (our plan is early Sept) and these delays could make that challenging. We were grateful for our timing working out as it did.
We know that we are no longer in the NY Canal System for sure as we watch the large freighters arrive at the Port of Oswego only a short distance from our position. Next chapter – into the Great Lakes.