M/Y Quite Nice

As we near the end of our adventure cruising America’s Great Loop, we began the discussion of what next. As much as we have enjoyed the two years we have spent cruising the Loop, we are beginning to look forward to returning to our life on land and with that a decision that we will make available for sale our beloved “Quite Nice”. We anticipate reaching the Mobile Bay area early to mid-November and would welcome anyone wanting to meet up with us there or along the way to see her. Best contact is email yschick@aol.com or call 512-779-8034. We are open to offers of $330,000 or more.

Quite Nice – The Specs

2001 DeFever 49 CPMY

Hull ID# CTF49126H001

Doc# 1110375

TX# 3550 AC

DIMENSIONS

LOA:  49′ 0″

Beam:  15′ 0″

LWL:  43′ 6″

Draft;  4’7″

Displacement:  53,900#

ENGINES

Twin Perkins Sabre M135’s

Cruising Speed:  8kts

Engine Hours:  approx. 4,000

TANKS

Fresh Water;  2  (185 gal ea)

Fuel:  4  (2 @350 ea, 1 @250, 1@150)  1,100 total

Holding:  60 gal

MECHANICAL

C-Marine bow thruster 24V

C-Marine stern thruster 24V

Glendinning engine synchronizer

Murphy digital tachs

ZF Hurth transmissions 2.5:1

1-3/4″ Aqua Met shafts w/26×18 bronze props

Prop Protector shaft rope cutters

Racor fuel filters w/vacuum gauges

Groco sea strainers

Rule bilge pumps (4) w/high water alarms

Sea Chest for all thru hull intakes

Gulf Coast fuel polishing & transfer system

PSS dripless shaft seals

Sealand 20gal water heater

Tankwatch-4 holding tank monitoring system

Engine room work bench

Capilano hydraulic steering

3 Marine Air air cond/heat units (9km 12k, 16k)

2 Vacuflush heads

Extensive supply of extra parts

ELECTRICAL

Westerbeke 12.5kw BTDA Genset,  3844 hrs

Magnum MS2812 Inverter/Charger (2020) plus a spare

Batteries:  (4) 8D Nov. 2020, 12v Genset 12v size 27 July 2021, (4) 12v AGM Thrusters 2ea 

12V & 110V electrical panels

50 amp shore service  (2 inputs), forward has galvanic isolator

12v fresh water pump

Fire/smoke/CO alarms (3)

FLYBRIDGE

Garmin 8612 XSV Dec. 2019

Garmin AIS-600 transceiver

Simrad AP-20 auto pilot

Icom IC-M502 VHF

Ritchie compass 4″

Garmin GPS Map 492

Garmin Echo 300c depth finder

Standard Horizon Explorer VHF

Electronics backbone system converted to NMEA 2000

Danforth remote-control searchlight

PILOT HOUSE

Garmin 942 XS

Simrad AP-20 auto pilot

Furuno GP36 GPS

Icom IC-M502 VHF

Danforth compass 5″

ENTERTAINMENT

Intellian i3 HDTV Satellite Antenna

Intellian Multi-Satellite Interface Multi-Switch

Dish Wally unit

LG 26” LED TV w/ Apple TV box

Insigna 24” Smart TV Apr 2021

Samsung 30” Smart TV Apr 2021

GALLEY/LAUNDRY

Princess 3-burner elec range/oven

Frigidaire microwave oven

2 Vitrifrigo refrigerators/freezers

Corian countertops

S/S deep double sink

Whirlpool Washer

Whirlpool Dryer

DECK

Synthetic teak decking

Maxwell 2200 windlass w/remote control

Claw anchor 65# w/200′ 3/8″ chain

Supermax anchor 75# w/200′ nylon rode

Anchor chain bridle

Anchor chain snubber

Brower Davit

Radar Arch

Bimini top w/Isinglass enclosure replaced Mar 2021

Window sun covers

Aft deck wet bar w/U-Line icemaker

Deck chairs (4) heavy folding 

Swim platform with s/s ladder

Fresh water wash-downs (cockpit & foredeck)

Magma stern-mounted BBQ grill

Dock steps (2-step) with s/s handrail

Folding dining table with 4 stackable chairs

Cockpit Taylor dock box

6 Taylor 25” fenders plus 2 15” Norwegian (red bulb) fenders

Magellan ice chest

Bottom paint March 2021, Pettit Trinidad Pro

New zincs

New hull paint below gunwale Mar 2021

DINGHY

2019 Achilles HB 315 DX

Center console with seat

Yamaha 20 HP, electric start, power tilt, 6 gallon fuel tank

Bimini

Garmin Striker GPS/Depth finder

Towing Bridle

SAFETY

EPIRB

USCG approved electronic flare

EXCLUSIONS

Tools

All personal and a few decorative items

As we are not moving to another boat.  We are willing to include most of the decorative items as well as galley utensils, small appliances, dishware, linens, cleaning and maintenance supplies, PFDs.  Most all were purchased in 2019 when we outfitted the boat. We are willing to negotiate for the extensive reference library of current Waterway Guides and other materials as well as 2 folding electric bikes.

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So much to be said and written about The Erie Canal. Built between 1817 and 1825, the original canal covered 363 miles from Albany to Buffalo. It was the longest artificial waterway and greatest public works project in North America. It put the state of New York on the map economically and provided a means for new immigrants to move westward. It was enlarged several times but the canal we traveled is essentially the original. In 2016, it was declared a National Historic Landmark. We feel it a great privilege to have the opportunity to travel an historic landmark via our own boat.

We will only travel the eastern half as there are bridges beyond that too low for us to get under.

Sections of the canal are manmade channels while other parts are thru the Mohawk River. We will pass thru 22 locks between Waterford and our turn off onto the Oswego Canal.

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Day 355, June 30, Schenectady, NY

Our first six locks on the canal, Locks 2-7, then an overnight stop at a really cute little marina – Schenectady Yacht club – right on the canal.

We met the crew from “Into the Mystic” who had been there for a few days for minor repairs. Lo and behold, they are from Freeport, Texas, right in our home area, so of course a good conversation about ‘back home’ ensued.

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The photo on the right is a guard gate used to hold back flow of the river/canal as needed. We had hoped to get more photos thru the locks but were too busy to do so.

Day 356 – 357, July 1 – 2, Amsterdam, NY

After Locks 8, 9 and 10, we decided to rest for a couple of days at our next stop, also the weather was not the best. We managed to get a spot on the wall at Amsterdam. A bit of a climb to get off the boat and a bit lively at times as the water ski boats demonstrated their skills close by, but we had power and WiFi (sort of) so life is good.

There is also a small restaurant on site which was good and that is always a plus. Unfortunately the fireworks and the live music that had been scheduled were cancelled due to heavy rains being forecast.

“Into the Mystic” was also on the dock wall and helped us get tied up – Texans looking out for each other.

We were greatly intrigued by a beautiful pedestrian walkway across the river. It featured plaques with just enough of the history of the area to inform, beautiful plantings and outstanding civic artwork.

The sign with “May Peace Prevail on Earth” was translated into 7 other languages. The concrete on the right is a piece of the towers after 9/11. It is a memorial to the event, very simple and tastefully done. As I recall, it is the only such piece on display outside of NYC.

Sadly, a city that had once been vibrant with light industry and transportation of goods, is now a minor tourist stop with a very weak economy. I found myself wondering what it would take to bring her back. We did appreciate what the community had provided aesthetically.

Day 358, July 3, St. Johnsville, NY

Much of traveling the canal is just peaceful cruising through lovely, quiet countryside; sometimes many miles without signs of others.

After Locks 11-15, we stopped at St. Johnsville for the night. There was a new harbor master there who was very pleasant and helpful and Peter had a long chat with the local police force of one cop who couldn’t believe at first that we had come all the way from Texas. He said with a smile that we must have taken a wrong turn someplace.

Day 359, July 4, Little Falls, NY

A short day through Locks 16 and 17 brought us to Little Falls. “Lucky Me” and “Sea C Rider” arrived at the dock later in the day. An impromptu docktails session ensued which was much enjoyed and gave us Loopers a chance to compare notes. Most of the Loopers we have met so far are going the full length of the Erie all the way to Buffalo whereas our height restricts our options and requires we take a different route into Lake Ontario.

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While sitting on the deck, other loopers walked up and joined us, then a few more. Before we knew it, there was a party going on.

Earlier in the day we unloaded our bikes and went on part of the Canalway Trail back to Lock 17 which is the deepest lock on the Erie Canal. It was interesting to see it from ‘shore side’. The Canalway Trail is a 360 mile east-west trail from Buffalo to Albany and is part of the newly completed Empire State Trail which also extends north-south from New York City to Lake Champlain.

It was nice to be able to use our bikes for once. Not every place we stop has docks which allow us to easily get them off the boat. Being e-bikes they are a bit heavier than the normal bike. This is also the first time in a while when we have had both bikes working. One bike – Yvonne’s – has always worked fine but the other one has had several electronic issues and even though the supplier has been responsive all the spares have to come from – you guessed it – China!!

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Day 360 – 362, July 5 – 7, Brewerton, NY

Did a long day from Little Falls to Brewerton, 61 miles. We usually like to keep the daily run under 50 miles as that allows us to arrive at our destination mid afternoon and allows a few hours to explore the place. We had intended to stop at Sylvan Beach but when we arrived the place was crazy with small craft and with no room at the dock, so we kept going across Lake Oneida to Brewerton where it was much more calm. We have a policy to avoid travel on weekends or holidays, but sometimes having good travel weather preempts this.

On our way, we traveled with two other loop boats and made our first lock with down elevation. These seem much easier as the water flowing out is more gentle and doesn’t affect the motion of the boat as dramatically as the inflow of water on the up bound locks.

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Brewerton was a good stop especially if repairs were needed. Brewerton Boat works, Ess-Kay and Winter Harbor all have good facilities and the winter storage facility at Winter Harbor looks to be first class and has a good reputation.

We met up with several other looper boats and went ashore for a meal the first night, walking the short distance across the bridge to the restaurant. We had to wait for a table because like so may restaurants at the moment, they were short staffed. It was a good meal and even better company so it was worth the wait. The second night we walked to a Pizza place nearby and were joined by other loopers from Ess-Kay.

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We also got our bikes down again and went for a ride around the neighborhood. As usual we found some beautiful houses hidden away bit. Very nice area to live in, as is most of the canal so far, if one forgets that there is a winter!

Day 363 – 364, July 8 – 9, Clay, NY

After Brewerton we continued west on the Erie Canal first making a stop only a short distance away at Winter Harbor where we filled up with fuel and used the pump out. Fuel here was $2.79 a gallon which was the cheapest we had seen for quite some while. Luckily, we had filled up a few months ago when the prices were even lower and carrying over 1100 gallons on board have not needed to take any fuel for a while.

We had heard raves about a marina only a few miles further on called Pirates Cove, so we decided to have a short day and pulled in there. What a gem. The owners were so helpful and friendly we wished that we had skipped Brewerton and come directly here. Next time for sure. Reasonable rates, friendly staff, a courtesy car and WiFi that actually worked – what more could we ask for? We also met up again with Larry and Mary on Living the Dream which was a plus. The owners even joined us for Happy Hour.

Shortly after leaving Pirates Cove the Erie Canal continued west but we could not follow it as there would be lower bridges we could not pass under due to our height, so we hung a right and proceeded on the alternate route up the Oswego Canal towards Lake Ontario.

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Day 365 – 366, July 10 – 11, Oswego, NY

We arrived at Oswego after transiting 24 miles and the seven locks on the Oswego Canal. The river was in full flood after the recent rains and there was a lot of debris which we had to dodge at times.

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We tied up at a wall in the “marina” – it was pretty rolly but at least it had power and was also pretty close to town.

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After settling in we met with the crew from Living the Dream whom we had followed up the Oswego Canal and together toured Fort Oswego and the museum. The Fort had a very interesting history passing back and forth from British to French to British to American hands in various wars. Peter thought he had heard the last of the Americans defeating the British in the American Revolution then came the Great Lakes and focus on the Americans defeating the British in the War of 1812.

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Learned a lot of history along the way. There was one ship full of refugees from the holocaust that was brought to the US and housed at Ft. Oswego. Enjoyed touring the small museum and watching a video of the story.

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Waiting for a weather window is part of the game, so we expect to be here for a couple of days at least before we head east towards the 1000 Islands area. We counted ourselves very fortunate to get to this point. Heavy rains in western New York state resulting in the locks on both the Erie and Oswego canals being closed for varying lengths of time. Some Loopers were stranded in some pretty out of the way places where they planned to be one night and ended up for ten. It is advisable to get through the Great Lakes and on to the rivers no later than the end of September (our plan is early Sept) and these delays could make that challenging. We were grateful for our timing working out as it did.

We know that we are no longer in the NY Canal System for sure as we watch the large freighters arrive at the Port of Oswego only a short distance from our position. Next chapter – into the Great Lakes.

Heading North from New York City

After stopping at the Statue of Liberty for the mandatory photo shoot we said goodbye to our buddy boat as they headed for Maine and we proceeded up the Hudson River. We timed the travel so that we went with the incoming tide which gave us a little help as opposed to us fighting it. This marks the point where we go from salt water coastal travel to fresh water rivers and lakes.

We marveled at the immensity of Manhattan as we passed by but we were also surprised by the lack of traffic on the river. We had been warned to expect it to be very busy but that just was not the case. Made our travel much easier but a bit eerie all the same.

Peter used to work in Manhattan, several years ago, and he was amazed at the visible changes, not the least of which was seeing the Freedom Tower which has replaced the WTCs.

Past New York City, we were amazed at the beauty of the Hudson River. The entire length we traveled was lush green hillsides, rocky cliffs and these charming lighthouses. Further north, another looper graciously took photos of our boat and sent to us. There is an app called NEBO that allows us to identify one another as well as finding the current location of friends.

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Day 342 – 347, June 17 – 22, Croton-on-Hudson, NY

Our first stop on the Hudson was Half Moon Bay Marina at Croton-on-Hudson. We extended our stay there for a few days waiting for mail, some spare parts, and weather. There were several other loopers there and we enjoyed the usual docktails with them.

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Two of Yvonne’s friends, Dolores and Dori, traveled by train from New York City to visit so some quality time was spent catching up with news and exploring the boat. Meeting them at the train station we saw this gorgeous mosaic mural depicting a nearby dam.

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We took the opportunity to put the dinghy in the water, a task which can be quite daunting although each time we do it it seems less so. We enjoyed puttering about on the water and did some exploring.

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Day 348, June 23, Poughkeepsie, NY

Next stop Poughkeepsie and Shadows Marina. A very nice facility right on the river with a great view and a first class restaurant on site. We treated ourselves to a wonderful meal to give Yvonne a break from her galley duties 🤣 and provide a belated birthday celebration.

The trip up the Hudson is getting prettier and prettier the further north we go. The pictures really do not do it justice. Very different from any of our cruising thus far.

Still very little traffic on the river.

On the way to Poughkeepsie, we passed by West Point and the Culinary Institute of America. Peter’s son-in-law, Peter Maffei, is a graduate of the CIA and we had hoped for a meal there but reservations are booked months in advance.

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Day 349 – 352, June 24 – 27, New Baltimore, NY

After another delightful day on the Hudson we arrived at Donovan’s Shady Harbor Marina. For once a marina with working wifi and a courtesy car, two amenities we have learned to greatly appreciate. We took advantage of the car for some grocery shopping and some sightseeing in Troy. In Troy, they had a wonderful Farmer’s Market which we enjoyed. The owners of this marina are boaters themselves and have created quite a special place for a stop.

We caught up with our friends on Magic, well, we caught up with Magic. Terry and Dorothy had left for a trip home while Magic had some repairs done.

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Day 353 – 354, June 28 – 29, Waterford, NY

After an enjoyable few days at Shady Harbor we cruised north through Albany and Troy, through our first lock on this leg, and docked at Waterford. Waterford is the point where we make a left turn off the Hudson River into the Erie Canal. Like so many small cities in this part of the country, Waterford is filled with history and charm while working to transition from its heights during the age of industry here. Being near the capital city of Albany makes work for the state and local governments the primary employers.

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One of Yvonne’s friends from many years back, Cindy Pinnsonault, visited us and graciously took us on a tour of Troy including dinner at a superb Indian restaurant. After so many waterfront eateries, it was a special treat to have ethnic food (a favorite of ours) in a place only a local would know. Another friend of a friend took us out for lunch the next day and gave us a tour of a different area of Troy where one of the highlights was seeing the grave of the original “Uncle Sam”. Legend says that Samuel Wilson worked supplying meat packed in barrels for the troops during the War of 1812. He was well-known and well-liked in the area and the locals called him Uncle Sam. He stamped the barrels “US” which he meant as United States but the locals thought he was indicating the shipments were coming from Uncle Sam. Thus the personification began.

The cemeteries in the area go back to the founding of the country and are fascinating to visit. We saw the grave of the man legend says was the original Uncle Sam.

We found lots of interesting sights as we strolled the streets.

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We walked up to the first lock, chatted with the lockmaster, and took a look. There were repairs being done further up the canal so it was shut down for half of the day and no traffic at that time. Not so intimidating when you see it from land. We had done lock #1 coming through Troy on the Hudson the day before. We had also done two in New Orleans as we crossed the Mississippi River so we were not overly concerned about our ability to handle these. Some boaters get a bit stressed and some locks are more challenging than others as we were to discover. More on all of that in our next chapter as we begin our westward journey on the Erie Canal.

Day 305 – 311 , May 11 – 17, 2021, Solomans Island, MD

Solomons Island Yacht Club is a private club that accepted us as guests. A small but very friendly and charming marina. We were there for the flag ceremony and blessing of the fleet opening their season. The club is perfectly located for exploring the town with more great restaurants and shopping in the area than we could totally take in. We were joined here by fellow Texas cruisers and Gold Loopers, Terry & Dorothy Godbold on “Magic” and greatly enjoyed their company.

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Day 312 – 315, May 18 – 21, Annapolis, MD

What can a boater say about Annapolis? It is certainly a mecca for our boating cult, home of the US Naval Academy, rich in US history, and devoted to all things nautical. We first docked in “Ego Alley”, a section of the harbor which is known for boats cruising up and down to see and be seen – you have to do it ONCE!! – as well as allowing lots of foot traffic to see the boats. We docked here for several days then spent our last night in Annapolis in the mooring field which is another unique experience.

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We wisely took a guided tour in a golf cart. The guide was very knowledgeable. The cart made it comfortable as well as very visible. With just the four of us, we were able to stop and go as we pleased. We also learned so much – Annapolis was the capitol of the US for 8 months, Geo Washington resigned his commission as General of the revolutionary forces in that building, it is the oldest legislative building still in use. The building and grounds are lovely. Unfortunately, we could not go inside but took in all we could.

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As much as we had enjoyed the touring, restaurants, and shopping of Annapolis, we were still delighted to move out of the marina and on to a mooring ball for our last night in the city. While a marina provides the comforts of access to land facilities and electric, we love being at anchor with the relaxed feeling of truly floating on the water. It was our first experience with a mooring ball which is essentially an anchor already placed by the marina which we just attach to – so much easier than anchoring.

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The next morning we were off to North East, Maryland. As we were pulling out at 8:00 am, we heard the Naval Academy playing Reveille then the Stars Spangled Banner over the speaker system. A perfect ending for our visit there.

Day 316 – 329, May 22 – June 4, North East, MD

North East is not usually on the Great Loop as it is at the furthest north point of the Chesapeake Bay and slightly north of where the more usual route exits the bay via the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal. I had told old friends who live in North East (Vic and Vicki Krohn) that we would be coming thru the area to arrange a possible visit. They insisted we look into making a stop at the North East River Yacht Club. We wanted a spot to lay low during Memorial Day weekend and North East looked like a good spot not too far off the path. We were so happy with that decision as we fell in love with the area and the local boating community. As a plus, we were joined there by our buddies on Magic.

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We tackled two major repairs while in North East. We had an ongoing problem with the aft head (toilet). We had pretty much rebuilt it and the only possibility left on the troubleshooting list was a clogged line between the head and the holding tank. Over time calcification builds up in the lines and starts to catch the stuff that is supposed to move through. I won’t go into a lot of details but an undesirable job to say the least and one that will cost a lot to have done by a marina even though it does not require particular technical skill. We decided to take it on ourselves. Bought the new hose (a much improved new technology) while we were in Annapolis; performed the replacement while in North East. Very proud of ourselves and it turned out to be even easier than we thought it would be. About an hour later, Peter discovered a leak in the coolant system pump. After several days of searching for a replacement pump, we turned it over to a professional with better access to sources and got ‘er done. I think he was disappointed when he showed up but Peter had already taken out the old one so all that was needed was a quick install of the new. What was originally planned to be a four day stop to let the weekenders have the water over Memorial Day weekend turned into two weeks due to weather and repairs.

Along with the crew from Magic, Terry and Dorothy, we made a trip to Philadelphia by car. It is probably the only significant US city we had never visited. The history and architecture are not to be missed. Worth a trip to Philly if for no other reason than to walk the grounds of Independence Hall. The sacred grounds where both the Declaration of Independence and the US Constitution were debated and adopted. The tours were severely limited due to covid restrictions and booked way in advance so we did not go inside but were able to walk the grounds. Still gives goosebumps and brings tears to the eyes when one thinks of the great men who showed such courage and commitment to freedom and liberty.

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Regrets: I rarely express regrets. That said, I regret we did not get photos of another driving trip we made to see the towns of Rockhall and St. Michael’s in Maryland. Also, even though we had the pleasure of spending lots of time together. No photos with the Krohn’s, Vic and Vicki, who gave us great recommendations, shared generously from their garden and chickens, and spent lots of quality time together.

Day 330 – 333, June 5 – 8, Delaware City, DE

With repairs completed, we left North East and the Chesapeake Bay via the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal headed for Delaware City located where the canal meets Delaware Bay. The plan was a day or two waiting for good weather conditions. Delaware Bay is a fairly large bay with strong currents, open to wind from the Atlantic, and pretty much no place to stop until we reach Cape May on the Atlantic Coast. The channel coming into the marina at Delaware City is “tricky” especially at low tide, and we managed to touch bottom. We heard a noise that was disconcerting so we decided to do a quick haul and check that everything was okay with the propellers. Of course, this decision was made on Saturday evening and the yard for hauling was closed Sunday and Monday, meaning our stay would be delayed thru Tuesday. We vowed to never let these delays be a problem but instead just part of the adventure and journey. Luckily, there was no damage.

Delaware would be our 11th state since departing Texas in Nov 2019.

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Day 334 – 337, June 9 – 12, Cape May, NJ

Our journey from Delaware City to Cape May was approached with caution. Word is Delaware Bay can be a bit hazardous. Wind and waves from the Atlantic can come straight up the bay and there is virtually no place to escape those once a boat is committed to the trip. We were fortunate that our our travel day had very little wind or waves. It was hazy with limited visibility but we had radar and could actually see well enough that it wasn’t an issue. We passed into New Jersey, the 12th state on our list.

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Day 338 – 339, June 13 – 14, Atlantic City, NJ

The Atlantic Ocean! We had glimpsed the big water as we crossed some of the major bays and sounds but this would be it – our first time into the actual ocean on our own. We waited for just the right weather and headed out from Cape May toward Atlantic City. It was a beautiful day and the travel was quite pleasurable.

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Day 340 – 342, June 15 – 16, Staten Island, NY

Another leg into the Atlantic. We had scheduled a stop at the Manasqua inlet. Word is the currents there are outrageous making docking an unbelievable challenge. As we neared the inlet the travel on the Atlantic was very comfortable so we decided to go for it and headed on toward Staten Island. Congratulated ourselves on the decision as it was a very long day but a pleasant trip.

On Staten Island, we were guests at the Great Kills Yacht Club. Cannot say enough good things about this place, an ideal stop for loopers. The dockmaster is a Looper and harbor host. He was most gracious as were any members we encountered. Developing a special place in our hearts for these member-managed yacht clubs and their hospitality. Will definitely seek them out as we venture on.

We had met the crew of Salty Dogs while in Atlantic City and traveled with them up the coast and into GKYC. They were great company.

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Day 343, June 17, A Milestone Day – Passing the Statue of Liberty

Reaching the Statue of Liberty is a milestone for anyone traveling America’s Great Loop. Seeing the statue from one’s own boat is quite an emotional event. It is the symbol of liberty and freedom, not just for American’s, but for all people. For boaters it is also the point where saltwater coastal travel ends and the freshwater rivers and lakes begin.

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… and we could not be happier to say so. We stayed on the boat in Chesapeake, VA, from our arrival in late August 2020 until late October when repairs were well underway. At that time, we headed home to Texas where we spent the winter catching up with family and friends as well as maintenance on our homes there. It was wonderful to spend the holidays with those we love. It was another extreme weather experience with the Big Freeze in Texas. Fortunately we were only without power for 30 hours and never without water. Peter’s home did have damage with frozen pipes and pool equipment but all were repaired fairly quickly.

Easter weekend, April 3, we arrived back at Atlantic Yacht Basin with Quite Nice freshly repaired and looking good as new. In addition to the hurricane damage repairs, we had routine maintenance done and felt like we have a new boat. We spent the month of April making a few improvements and performing maintenance of our own, Mostly, we were waiting for the weather to get warm enough that we felt comfortable being on deck most of the day.

Our loop days #208-294 were spent at AYB (I count any day we are on the boat). Our original plan had called for a break from fall of 2020 until spring of 2021 so we are not really off the projected schedule, just didn’t make the route anticipated for summer 2020. Cruising and, particularly cruising the Great Loop, calls for the utmost in flexibility. We had great support from Ken and Linda Horton, the AGLCA Harbor Hosts who went way beyond the call of duty many time and became great friends.

We have continued to approach every day with gratitude. So, let’s get back to it.

Day 295 – 296, May 1 – 2, 2021, Norfolk, VA

We were grinning from ear to ear as we were once again on the move. The move from Chesapeake to Norfolk was a short one at only 11 miles but such a pleasure none the less. Waterside Marina was a hopping place with lots of activity on a delightful spring weekend with people anxious to get out once again and enjoy the sunshine.

Day 297 – 299, May 3 – 5, Hampton, VA

Another short run to Hampton, VA. We thought we would keep the trips fairly short until we were confident the boat mechanicals were still purring. Along the way we were passing through the largest naval facility in the world. Miles of naval vessels and the facilities to maintain them.

Each of these waterfront towns has its own unique charm. Within walking distance were several good restaurants though not much in the way of shopping. Weather kept us a day longer than planned but that is the nature of cruising.

Day 300 – 304, May 6 – 10, Deltaville, VA

Now we were leaving the Elizabeth River and actually into Chesapeake Bay. We quickly were reminded of all of the cautions we were given regarding boating on the Chez. It is a large body of open water with the wind and waves that go with it. A little more bouncy than we had hoped for but we were never uncomfortable. We quickly scurried below to make a few adjustments for the conditions that we should have made before leaving the dock. A little deceiving when you are up a creek in a protected area then on the river (still not too bad) then you hit the open bay and WOW. The winds diminished as the day progressed and we were able to relax more and enjoy. Deltaville Marina is another delightful change of scenery.

We visited the Maritime Museum. There is always interesting to learn about the history of the coastal towns. We had noticed a very interesting restored boat docked next to us, the “F. D. Crockett”. At the museum there was an extensive display with the history of the boat.

Had a brief visit here with several fellow Texas boaters including new friends who are friends with the previous owners of our boat. Boating seems to be a small world.

Next stop Solomons Island, MD.

This has been a most difficult post to begin. It isn’t that we have been that busy post-Isaias for the time has been mostly waiting, it just isn’t as much fun to share as the usual cruising. We had promised ourselves we would take any eventuality as part of the adventure and we knew weather is always a risk on the water. We are smart enough to prepare for potential dangers but perhaps we were overly optimistic.

Day 191 – 194, Aug 3 – 6, Southport, NC

Downgraded to a tropical storm then up again to a Cat 1 hurricane. Most of the locals were downplaying the potential severity. Peter and I had both experienced hurricanes with boats, some with more potential for danger than Isaias appeared to have. We prepared the best we could and went to spend the night with our friends. Robert and Kay Creech. We took our computers and an overnight bag, anticipating returning to the boat for clean-up the next day.

Of course, we were pretty well glued to the TV watching the weather reports. About 7:00 we were having dinner when the weatherman pointed to a spot on the map saying there was a tornado, Just as Kay says, “that’s here”, all heck broke loose outside. Their yard is filled with gorgeous old oak trees and 6-inch limbs were being snapped off and thrown like missiles. About 9:00 the hurricane started to come ashore. The radar showed us to be exactly on the eye-wall, northeast corner, the absolute worst possible location. The house literally vibrated from the force of the wind and rain as we hunkered down in an inside room. About midnight, the worst seemed to be over, exhaustion got the best of us and we were able to sleep for a bit.

We were up about 6:00 (Tues, the 4th) mostly surveying the immediate damage to the trees. Gratefully, the Creech’s home had no damage but, as to be expected, we were without power. Clever Creech’s have a generator so at least we could have hot coffee, charge computers and phones, etc. We were walking toward the marina when Kay’s phone rang. One of the young men in their family works with the fire department. He was calling to let her know the marina had been destroyed. No way we could prepare ourselves for what we were about to witness. There was law enforcement everywhere, for which we were grateful. Robert, being an old-timer in the area and knowing the chief of police who was on site, was able to get us a few minutes but it was difficult to see anything in the massive jumble of boats and docks. We were especially grateful there was no damage (except the trees) to the Creech’s home, grateful for their hospitality, and grateful that none we knew of were injured.

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There had been a combination of factors. The storm arrived at high tide; it was a king tide at the full moon; the storm surge, of course; and perhaps some design or engineering flaw with the marina.

The next three days we paced the floor and streets anxious to get to the boat. It was chaos with little information. Friends from Houston, Simon and Linda Hameka on Indigo Seas, had been further south and arrived on Thurs to see what help they could give us. We were able to travel in their dinghy to get a closer look from the water side and by now we were seeing aerial photos but still could not get to or on our boat. The marina management called in a recovery operation but it was Friday before we could get to Quite Nice.

Day 195, Aug 7, Back on the boat, leaving Southport, and on to Wilmington, NC

The recovery team ferried us to the boat, pulled us out of the wreckage, and turned us over to be towed. There was a “glitch” in the electrical system so we were towed from Southport to Bridge Tender Marina on the ICW in Wilmington, NC. We still had our overnight bags at the Creech’s house so the Hameka’s picked those up and brought them to us at Bridge Tender. We had zero food in the fridge as there had been no electric for 4 days and the batteries had run all the way down but we kept managing.

We had been hopeful that our location on the outer edge would minimize the damage. Unfortunately, she still got a pretty good beating. Our decision to leave the bimini on was not the best (as the gentleman preparing a replacement said, “what part of ‘hurricane’ didn’t you understand?”). In front of us on the dock was a large steel-hulled trawler with an huge bow pulpit and oversized anchor. That extension jammed into our deckhouse breaking the windows and support, damaging the joint of the deck and hull, and tangling with the handrail to the point that the crew had to cut it loose.

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Day 196-204, Aug 8 – 16, Beaufort, NC

Hundreds of boat owners had been calling marinas and boatyards for 100 miles as there were so many damaged and one needed a destination as soon as one’s boat was removed from the marina. With good recommendations, we headed to Jarrett Bay Boatyard in Beaufort. Peter had resolved the electrical question to the point we felt we could travel this next leg on our own. It was still August and we had no bimini for protection from the sun so we were driving from the lower helm which was a new experience but a good one. It increased our confidence that we now had additional experience operating our boat. We were especially grateful that there was little damage on the interior and that the mechanicals and running gear were operating well. Our one short conversation with the project manager at Jarrett Bay convinced us that they really were not interested in our job. No doubt they do great work but they apparently had lots of it and we were feeling slightly brushed off. No hard feelings as we are always confident anything that looks like a set-back is for the best in the big picture. Even though we decided fairly quickly we would not be getting the work done at that location, we waited here for an insurance surveyor to come look at the damage, made plans for another boatyard, and waited out some stormy weather. We did get to see the launch of a $10M mega offshore fishing boat they had build which is their specialty.

Boaters are the best kind of people. There is an instant camaraderie and support network that is rare to find in today’s world. Friends who knew we were headed to Jarrett Bay called other friends who were there having work done. They called ahead and offered to pick up groceries for us which were desperately needed. We were warmly greeted and gifted with some additional fruit and goodies from the local farmer’s market. There was a courtesy car available which allowed for more grocery shopping and even getting out to explore the area a bit.

We started to feel a bit of returning to normalcy tied up at a dock with a charming view, started to clean up a little of the debris on the decks and even got the gaping holes somewhat secured.

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With lots of research we determined that the Atlantic Yacht Basin in Chesapeake, VA, would be a good location for our repairs. It would be about 150 miles and 4 days of travel on the water so we headed off again. It wasn’t our usual cruising. One doesn’t see the scenery the same way driving from the lower helm inside the deck house but were were determined to make the best of it.

Day 205, Aug 17, Belhaven, NC

There are two significant inlet crossings in the area. We took the first, Pamlico Sound with no difficulties. Belhaven is a charming area and we loved the Dowry Creek marina. Would have loved spending more time here under different circumstances.

Day 206, Aug 18, Alligator River, NC

Tiny marina that is an adjunct to a convenience store. The Hameka’s on Indigo Seas caught up with us again and we enjoyed cocktails together on the boat. Probably would skip the marina and just anchor here next go round.

Day 207, Aug 19, Coinjock, NC

Coinjock isn’t a fancy marina but it is a popular stop for ICW cruisers and there is a well known restaurant on site which is always welcoming to boaters. We had not eaten off the boat in several days and it was a welcome opportunity.

Day 208 – until…, Aug 20 – until…, Chesapeake, VA

As I write, we have been at Atlantic Yacht Basin 55 days. We decided we were not interested in returning south to Florida again so soon. As the repairs would likely take until the end of the season for cruising any further north, we decide we would store the boat here for the winter (there is good covered storage for protection from snow and ice) and return in the spring to continue north. The yard has been a little slow in getting started but the repairs are now underway and we can see progress. We had thought we might leave to head back to TX earlier but have discovered we are more confident being here where we can watch what is happening and keep pushing a departure off another week and then another. We’ve heard too many stories from other owners about leaving a boat for months only to return with none of the work done. It isn’t just an issue here, boatyards everywhere are notorious for slow progress. One must push ever so gently as there isn’t another reputable facility just around the corner. We often feel we are dancing on a tightrope.

For now, the boat is in the water in a work shed. We are able to stay on board so we have the comfort of “home” although we do miss having daylight and a view. There are several great restaurants and a good grocery in easy walking distance. We have made some great friends. Most afternoons at 5:00 those who desire social interaction gather under the trees for docktails. If someone is here with a car they are always generous in offering rides to the grocery or for errands, some even lending their cars. We have had dinner out with friends many times. The local Harbor Hosts, Ken and Linda Horton are so very gracious and we have been fortunate to spend time with them.

We have taken the time to explore the area like we would normally. We’ve been to Virginia Beach and Norfolk. Made a day trip to Jamestown, site of the first permanent British settlement in the early 1600’s with a great museum. Went to see the Dismal Swamp since we did not cruise that leg. Drove to visit Indigo Seas at their winter location in Edenton.

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The Big Break

Everyone’s Loop experience is different, of course. From our conversations, few people do it in one year. Most often there are interruptions for health or family matters. We knew ours would be at least two years as the Illinois River would be closed this fall. Covid and Isaias have altered our plans considerably but have not dimmed our spirit for the adventure. We may visit the boat between now and spring to check out the repairs but for sure we will be back late March to get her and ourselves ready to head north. Most Loopers leave this area between mid-April and mid-May and that will be our plan. There is much to catch up on back in Texas including our families, friends, and maintenance at home. We were away for the holidays last year and it will be good to be back with those we love for this season.

Note: It took us awhile to wrap up this post. We were in progress updating when we experienced hurricane Isaias. We still want to document and share our trip to that point. More on the storm and aftermath later.

Another milestone as we leave Florida, a large section of the Loop on its own, and cross the state line into Georgia. The Intracoastal Waterway through Georgia and South Carolina twists and turns, one minute the boat is heading west, the next east. It really does require both of us to navigate, watching for channel markers ahead as well as monitoring the Garmin chartplotter and Aquamaps app on our phones. All it takes is a brief moment of inattention and the boat can be out of the channel and aground. Even when on a stretch that allows for using the autopilot, the helmsman is continuously monitoring the depth finder, the chartplotter, and what is seen visually.

Days 159 – 162, July 2 – 5, Jekyll Island, GA

Jekyll Island is considered by many the most beautiful island on the US Atlantic coast. In the late 19th century, it was established as a resort get away for the extremely wealthy. In the early 20th century, the likes of J.P. Morgan, Rockefeller, and Vanderbilt had homes on the island. It is the place where they along with a couple of Senators met and conspired to create the Federal Reserve Bank but that is a story for another day and we tried not to let that piece of history interfere with our appreciation of the beautiful scenery. The very low level of traffic allowed us to hop on our bikes and explore the quiet roads through the village.

Days 163 – 165, July 6 – 8, Brunswick, GA

Brunswick Landing marina has a reputation for its abundant social life. A marina community room is usually the daily center for happy hour celebrations and meeting up with other boaters. Due to ‘Rona, those activities had been cancelled. We did explore the historic district and enjoyed some quiet time.

Day 166, July 9, New Teakettle Creek

The trip from Brunswick to Savannah was longer that we wanted to try in a day so we broke up the journey with an overnight anchorage in New Teakettle Creek. The only sign of civilization was one far distant light we could make out. Quiet serene.

Day 167 – 173, July 10 – 16, Savannah, GA

So much can be said for the beauty, charm and hospitality of Savannah. After the quiet in Brunswick and Teakettle, we decided to generate as much social activity as we could. We managed to have docktails with the crew of Nectar with whom we had crossed paths in Marathon. Then dinner with harbor hosts, the Moore’s. We had met Wes and Amanda Dorman of Honey Queen when we were sharing the same dock in Marathon. Honey Queen had crossed her wake and completed the loop just weeks before. They, too, are harbor hosts and generously provided us with transportation for shopping and errands as well as sharing some of the amazing restaurants of Savannah. One of the great joys of traveling the Great Loop is time spent with other boaters. There is always the shared interest and no end of conversation with stories of the adventure. In the city, we took a guided tour. It is a city rich in history with so much to see.

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Days 174 – 176, July 17 – 19, Beaufort, SC

Lady’s Island Marina wasn’t our first choice but the city marina was booked full in anticipation of the annual Water Festival which of course was cancelled due to covid. As things always work our for us, we LOVED Lady’s Island. The setting was lovely and the owner/manager was extremely gracious and helpful. A superb restaurant right on site and a courtesy car readily available. While it isn’t as convenient to downtown, the use of the car made downtown accessible to us.

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Days 177 – 180, July 20 – 23, Charleston, SC

What can one say about Charleston that hasn’t already been said. It is one of the most beautiful, charming, historic cities in the US. We took a Gray Line tour (nice air conditioned mini-bus during record breaking heat) and much enjoyed seeing the sites and hearing the history. Next was lunch at Magnolia’s, one of Charleston’s most highly rated restaurants and a very special treat. Finally, we had the great privilege of meeting a local harbor host, Dr. Jerry Reves, who had grown up in the historic district of Charleston and knew its every building. He graciously shared a visit at the Carolina Yacht Club. The CYC was established in 1853 and is the quintessential yacht club. I tried to imagine the conversations that have been had, the occasions that have been celebrated, the deals that have been made and the tales that have been told in its walls.

Days 181 – 183, July 24 – 29, Georgetown, SC

Harborwalk Marina was our temporary home in Georgetown and was set right in the heart of the historic old town. Quaint buildings, several good restaurants, cute shops and all right at our doorstep.

As we neared Georgetown, we ran into the heaviest weather we had traveled through. Never any real danger but a bit intense. Peter did a great job at the helm while I navigated. Good news was the wind and rain had passed just before we arrived at the dock so we did not have to deal with it there.

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Days 184 – 185, July 27 – 28, Murrells Inlet, SC

What a delightful surprise! There are many different styles of cruising. We are discovering our personal preferences and the factors that make cruising most pleasurable for us. One thing we have discovered is our preference for smaller marinas where the owners are likely to be onsite and personally involved. Wacca Wache marina was just that. Set on the Waccamaw River with its black water and majestic cypress trees lining the banks, Wacca Wache has a definite charm. In addition, we were fortunate to spend time with the local Harbor Hosts, Tom and Brenda, crew of “Kissed Some Frogs”. We had met them briefly when we were on the same dock in Marathon, FL. They were most generous with their time, information, transportation, and Brenda’s killer Blondies. The river is so secluded as to make us think there was nothing and no one around for miles. Another surprise – Murrels Inlet is very near Myrtle Beach and has an abundance of great restaurants and all the shopping one could ask for.

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Days 186 – 191, July 29 – Aug 3, Southport, NC

We had planned to make another stop between Wacca Wache and Southport but there was no perfect stop and with (at that time) Tropical Storm Isaias brewing in the Caribbean, we elected to get to a location we felt would offer more resources if needed. We needed an early morning start both for the distance and because we would be passing thru the dreaded Rockpile with a desire to time the tides to our advantage.

There was a hurricane headed our direction so we prepped as best we could with extra lines and fenders. The floating docks should allow for the predicted 2-4 foot surge and forecasts were for the storm to lessen maybe even down to tropical storm status before coming ashore.

The front porch of the home of Robert and Kay Creech is a must stop for Loopers passing through Southport. They were named Harbor Hosts of the Year for 2019 and it is a well earned title. Their generosity and hospitality knows no bounds. We spent most of the afternoon before the storm watching the forecasts and sharing tales as neighbors, friends and family stopped in to see how we all were progressing. They had insisted we would spend the night at their home rather than on the boat.

Next Episode – the hurricane and its aftermath.

We made the best of our ‘Rona break back in Texas. We caught up with some maintenance at our homes and visited with family and friends to the extent we could. As things were beginning to re-open, including an announcement the Keys would re-open on June 1, we packed up in a rental car again and headed back to Marathon and the continuation of our loop.

We had planned the winter and early spring in Florida and Bahamas then up the coast for summer in the Great Lakes. Our priority became moving north to lessen the exposure to hurricanes during the season. In our revised plan, we did not consider the constant heat and humidity. It is brutal. Local activities and seeing the sites is affected by the heat with many days having a “feels like” of more than 100 degrees. We’ve read that heat kills the virus and are counting on that being an additional disinfectant for us.

Day 130 – 134, June 3 – 7, 2020, Marathon

Two and a half months away from our floating home, Quite Nice, as we waited out the virus threat. We drove 1350 miles over 3 days and arrived back in Marathon, FL, at Marlin Bay Marina. She was just as we left her and we appreciate the good care the marina staff and our friends gave her. The marina was near empty as most cruisers avoid the Keys during hurricane season and had moved on. We got busy getting deck furnishings out of the cabin and back on deck, car unloaded and our personal stuff put away again, cleaning, laundry, grocery shopping. No rush for any of that as the weather forecast was for days and days of rain and thunderstorms. We are fair-weather cruisers and held-out for better conditions. No complaints as we needed to catch our breath. We had become very accustomed to the slow pace of quarantine.

“Why Me, Lord?” was on our dock at MBM and had delayed their departure as well. We had similar plans and they had cruised the east coast of Florida before so becoming boat buddies with them was a definite blessing.

Day 135, June 8, Key Largo

And we are off. We had not cruised the boat since arriving in Marathon on Jan 20. Would we remember how? Would she perform? First stop was an anchorage at Buttonwood Sound off Key Largo. The scenery was gorgeous, the weather delightful, the water crystal clear. Heavenly.

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Day 136, June 9, Miami

What a change! Cruising from the tranquility of the Keys to the bustle of Miami was quite a contrast. The Keys are so laid back. The waters of Miami are filled with fast boats and loud music. Still, we adjusted and enjoyed the spectacular skyline while at anchor at the Marine Stadium.

Day 137, June 10, Hollywood

We are cruising with “Why Me, Lord?” They requested that we make a short jaunt from Miami to an anchorage in Hollywood, FL. Our chart shows only 4 feet of depth at that location (we need 5 not to touch bottom and want 6 minimum). They draw about the same and say they have anchored there before so we trust. When we arrive at the anchorage, the water is more than 30 feet deep! Hey, can we find a little more shallow spot? Guess the charts aren’t always right. WML dropped their dinghy and we joined them for a trip ashore. Very nice lunch at Billy’s Stone Crab, then a stroll along the waterfront and cocktails at Margaritaville. We are getting in the swing of anchoring overnight now. Before leaving Marathon, we had only spent two nights at anchor and we found it very pleasant.

Day 138, June 11, Lantana

Another anchorage and jaunt ashore with Brooke and Allen from WML. Dinner at the Old Key Lime House. We could get used to this.

Day 139 – 141, June 12 – 14, Palm Beach

Okay, time for a marina, groceries, time on land. Soverel Marina proved a good choice. We had our challenge getting back in the groove of docking; first time in so many months, with some wind and current in the mix. We always find the dockhands to be extremely patient and helpful as they were here. Afterward, Peter and I went over “lessons learned”. There is some comfort in knowing this is a challenge for many cruisers and a point of stress for most. Similar to flying an airplane, the takeoffs and landings are the trickiest part.

The marina doesn’t have the dramatic views of others we have enjoyed, but the trade off is a fabulous commercial/retail center. Several outstanding restaurants and a fabulous gourmet market.

Day 142, June 15, Ft. Pierce

Another experience for the books. We anchored overnight at Ft. Pierce Inlet Island North. Everything routine until we got ready to leave the next morning. Up comes the anchor with a cable over it. We tried several maneuvers to free it but wasn’t happening. Why Me, Lord? to the rescue. They headed over in their dinghy and were able to lift the “cable” off. Cable was most likely a very heavy hawser that had been laying on the bottom waiting to snare us.

Day 143 – 144, June 16-17, Vero Beach

Always game to try something new. Vero Beach has a free bus that stops right in the marina. We hopped on along with Allen and Brooke and headed for the beach. The beach area has beautiful resort hotels, upscale shopping and interesting waterfront bars and restaurants. We bar-hopped a bit sampling cocktails and appetizers then headed back to the boats via Uber.

Day 145 – 149, June 18 – 22, Melbourne/Eau Gallie

Eau Gallie was a separate city until it merged with Melbourne in 1969. It has an arts district with charming shops and restaurants. Found an Irish Pub for Peter to celebrate Fathers’ Day. Okay, not an English pub but much the same style. Lunch one day on the beach at Squid Lips.

The Eau Gallie Yacht Basin is one of the oldest marinas in Florida having been established in 1896; very “old Florida” with few amenities but loads of charm and a colorful live-aboard community. Very friendly and helpful Dockmaster who gave Peter a lift to West Marine and found a diver for us as we needed a zinc changed.

Day 150, June 23, Titusville

Titusville is very near Cape Kennedy/Canaveral where the space rockets are launched. It is a popular area for people to gather on boats to watch the launches. There aren’t that many and we were not timed to see one. Peter did capture an amazing sunrise.

Day 151, June 24, Daytona

Not much to say about this stop. We were only there for a night and pushing pretty hard so it was a quiet evening to ourselves on the boat.

Day 152 – 155, June 25 – 28, St. Augustine

St. Augustine is the oldest continually inhabited city in the US. Much history and charm. We took a trolley tour to capture the highlights of things to see and do. I especially enjoy these tours as they give a great overview of a city. We found several nice eateries and had a chance for a little shopping.

Day 156 – 158, June 29 – July 1, Fernandina Beach on Amelia Island

This will be our last stop in Florida as our next leg will take us across the state line into Georgia. We had planned on the winter and early spring in Florida and that we would be in the cooler climes of the Great Lakes by now. We are probably seeing fewer attractions and spending less time exploring due to the heat but still we are enjoying our adventure. There is a really great old town area right at the marina so the walks for restaurants and shopping were not long. Another spot we would gladly revisit.

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More Comments

I don’t mention often the distances we travel. Our longest days are usually about 50 miles, as was the one from St. Augustine to Fernandina Beach and the Fernandina Harbor marina. Although we have done a couple of overnight runs which were much longer. We travel in a day about what could be done in one hour in a car; our speed being about 6-8 mph. Could be challenging for strong Type-A personalities but isn’t a problem for either of us. The slow pace provides the opportunity to relax and take in the beautiful surroundings. There are some long, straight stretches where we can just put on the auto pilot and lean back. Still one of us must be constantly “on watch” visually check that all is well around us, on course, no depth issues. We each take time at the helm. We are getting back into the rhythm of planning, weather, work time and down time. Still wake up happy for a new day of shared adventure.

Days 106 – 114, Feb 16 – 25

Yvonne’s brother Dave and his wife Pauline arrived on the 18th. It was a perfect visit with some touring, too much eating, and lots of just relaxing. Dave is an avid fisherman so he and Peter took the dinghy out one day for fishing. Dave caught several including one large enough for dinner for the four of us along with some grilled lobster tails and his famous Alexander sauce. We drove to Deer Key and visited a nature center but never spotted the famous Key Deer. On the 25th, the four of us drove to Ft. Lauderdale where we spent the night at Peter’s condo before flying out the next day headed home to Texas.

Feb. 25 – March 9

We spent two weeks back in Texas where we caught up with family and friends, business, doctor visits, and income tax prep. It was nice to be back and even saw some bluebonnets and other wildflowers as they started their bloom. We returned via Ft. Lauderdale once more. Peter’s condo was now under contract so we had an opportunity to take out a few things that had special sentimental value.

Days 115 – 129, Mar 11 – 25

We were now anticipating heading to the Bahamas around the 20th. We did some initial provisioning of the boat and started looking at plans for a route but the coronavirus alerts had begun and we went into a bit of a wait-and-see status. I don’t need to tell anyone how that turned out. There was an opportunity for one or two social gatherings around the marina in Marathon before things really heated up. We had used InstaCart a couple of times to get groceries delivered but now even that was difficult to schedule. Marina services were being cut back a bit more every few days. Our favorite eateries were going to take-out only. We could walk in the sunshine but not really get out and about. First, the Bahamas trip was off the table. Then, the thought of possibly being ill in the confines of the boat and with such limited medical resources locally became a big concern. Even getting a rental car for the trip home became complicated. A very dear friend and fellow boater with a car graciously drove us to Key West to pick up a rental. With heavy hearts, we secured “Quite Nice” as best we could and left her in the hands of the marina staff and friends. On the 26th we once again headed for an interim stop in Ft. Lauderdale then driving back home to Texas.

Some Thoughts

When we started planning to do the Great Loop, we knew there would likely be interruptions. Listening to the stories of other Loopers (given the length of time needed to make the trip), it is rare that there is not some occurrence of family situations, health , or major weather that deems a stop necessary. I guess we need to add “world events” to that list. We had decided that whatever came up we would treat as part of the adventure. So our adventure now includes self-isolating on a boat in the Keys, making a road trip during a travel shutdown with county and state lines being barricaded within hours after our crossing, then joining the majority in simply hunkering down at home to wait it out. As I write on April 28th, the Governor of Texas announced yesterday that restrictions are beginning to be lifted starting this Friday. Word is the Keys do not anticipate opening until June 1 at the very earliest. They are currently closed to non-residents. When the time is right, we will return to the boat. Likely we will need a few days to make sure all is in working order and to provision, then make a plan for where we will head from there.

For now, we are grateful that we are both healthy as well as our families and circle of friends; grateful for the comfort of home; grateful for the experience we have thus far on our cruise; grateful that we can look forward to a future of cruising the beautiful coastal areas of our country; and most especially, grateful that we have each other.

Days 65-66, Jan 6-7, Gasparilla Island

Next stop Boca Grande on Gasparilla Island. Boca Grande is what I’ve labeled “the Hamptons of Florida”. The Gasparilla Inn & Club was built more than 100 years ago for the wealthiest of the wealthy from New England to escape winters. The Bush family winters there. We were looking forward to experiencing at least a day or two. We were unable to get dockage at the Boca Grande in the heart of the town as they were hosting a yacht club group. On their recommendation, we headed for Uncle Henry’s Marina at the north end of the island.

Getting to Uncle Henry’s required a treacherous journey along a very narrow winding channel for over a mile. Have never before experienced a channel with S-curves like that. Fortunately, the dockmaster was at a third floor lookout and could direct us along the way. Shallow water creates much stress for us as a crew and this was some extremely shallow water. The marina was at least a safe harbor for a couple of nights though extremely pricey for few amenities. The only nearby restaurant was closed the two nights we were there.

The locals and visitors mostly use golf carts to get about. We only wanted to make the short 3 mile trip to the town area for a few hours so opted for Uber instead of renting a golf cart. I noted that the Uber driver was coming over the bridge from the mainland but didn’t think much of that since I guessed most Uber drivers could not afford to live on the island. We arrived downtown about 5:15 to find that (as we say in Texas) “they had rolled up the sidewalks”. Shops closed at 5:00 and there was hardly a soul in sight. Still we enjoyed a walkabout and had an amazing meal at the famed Pink Elephant restaurant.

When we were ready to leave about 7:30, I opened my Uber app and got a response “no drivers available”. I waited a bit and tried again, same response. Uh, oh, no driver was wanting to come back over to the island. I asked the hostess if she could call for a taxi. That was when I found out there were no taxis on the island. I asked if she had a boyfriend who wanted to take us back and make a bit; not on the island. I explained our situation and that our marina was more than 3 miles away and we weren’t prepared to walk that far. The restaurant was part of the fancy hotel across the street, she called for them to send a cart for us. When the cart driver started out in a different direction, I gave him directions to our marina. “The golf cart doesn’t have enough charge to go that far”. He assumed we were at the in town marina only a few blocks away. So he took us back to the hotel to get a van. When he got off the cart and started in to get the key, I asked if we should follow him. He looked stunned and gave a quick “no”. We easily got the idea the boss would not approve of his taking non-guests for a ride home. He did get a van and returned us to the marina where we stayed put until time to leave and face the treacherous channel again.

Day 67 – 77, Jan 8 – 18, Ft. Myers

Ft. Myers – what a treat! The city owned Ft. Myers Yacht Basin was quite a way up the river from the ICW but we were happy to add the side trip for the conveniences and delightful time we spent. The marina was an easy walk to the charmingly redeveloped old downtown area with lots of restaurant choices and good shopping. It was a very socially active time for us. We made new friends with the crew of Pizza Money who shared their car for shopping. We reconnected with the crew of All Talk whom we had anchored next to near Panama City and shared a dock in Apalachicola.

Our friends Simon and Linda Hameka, also from the Galveston Bay, TX, area had left more than a month after we did. They caught up with us and we spent fun time together.

Dave and Barb Reinken had us to their home for a gathering of DeFever owners. What a pleasure! Not only did we make lots of new friends but we finally met in person with Kemba and Bob DeGroot, former owners of our boat. Not only are they the sweetest people and great fun socially, they are generous beyond words as they visited our boat and spent hours sharing advice and answering questions then gifted us with scads of charts and books documenting their journey. Kemba is quite the writer and brings great color to her story.

John and Pam Short of “Short Vacation” are also DeFever owners. They generously provided us with transportation to the DF party and spend time sharing their knowledge and experience. We had the very great pleasure of attending their celebration of earning the gold burgee as they crossed their wake and completed the Great Loop right there at the Ft. Myers Yacht Basin.

We hated the thought of leaving and easily see why so many loopers choose the Cape Coral/Ft. Myers area as a new home base after completing the loop. There is so much to see and do in the area and we did not even scratch the surface.

Day 78 – 79, Jan 19- 20,

As much as we were enjoying our time in Ft. Myers, the Keys were calling to us. Once again, the weather was dictating a schedule. There would be less desirable conditions for a week or more and about a 24 hour weather window with conditions we felt comfortable with. As uncomfortable as we had been on the overnight trip from Apalachicola to Clearwater, we decided to do another overnight trip. We felt confident the conditions would be much more in our favor this time and they were. We scrubbed our plans for a leisurely hop down the coastline with multiple stops and geared up to head straight across the Gulf from Ft. Myers to Marathon, a 130 mile, 20 hour journey. We were comforted that we had two other boats to share the voyage.

While the weather and wave conditions were much better, the crab pots presented the big challenge. They were everywhere the entire passage; bad enough in the daylight but even worse in the dark. We were three boats and the lead had a good light on the front. Throughout the night they were calling out on the VHF, “crab pots to port”, “crab pots to starboard”, “crab pots everywhere”. We had on our forward spotlight plus using flashlights to try to keep them spotted. Good news was we all three made it thru without incident. About 5:00 in the morning, we realized we would be arriving at the marina before daylight and the density of the crab pots was becoming impossible. We dropped anchor for about an hour to wait for dawn. While we were waiting the wind began to build up with us totally unprotected as we were still in the Gulf. Another challenge but not too much for us.

Day 80 – 105, Jan 21 – Feb 15, Marathon, FL

Reaching the Florida Keys has been another major milestone. It is a boaters dream come true. We had heard there were no marinas available and had some concern for finding a spot (well, Peter anyway). Yvonne worked a little magic and found us great dockage at the gorgeous Marlin Bay Resort & Marina with a plan to stay one month.

It isn’t a particularly large marina but it is filled with other loopers and we have spent time making new friends and catching up with others we have met along the way. Some arrived ahead of us with plans to stay the entire winter. Others come and go in a few days and everything in between. Everyone cruises in their own unique style and timing. The winter storms that bring blizzards to other parts of the country will sometimes reach down here bringing a north wind and dropping temps into 60’s requiring a hoodie when out and about. Mostly it is sunshine and high 70’s temps, even warmer some days.

We finally had the opportunity to put our dinghy in the water. We had acquired her only a few days before departing in early Nov. with barely time to make a few rounds in Clear Lake then lift her to the carrier on top of the deck. As we were settled in here for a bit of time, she made it back into the water. We’ve spent time cruising her in and out of the marina and will begin using her for transportation to other parts of the island. Very happy with the selection we made.

Yvonne’s sister, Denise, and great niece, Tori, came for a too brief visit. We enjoyed lots of eating out, cocktails by the pool, a day trip to Key West, and time together.

Looking forward

Yvonne’s brother, Dave, and his wife, Pauline, will be visiting this coming week. For a variety of reasons, we decided to keep our slip at Marlin Bay until March 20. During that time we will be making a two-week trip back to Texas and preparing to leave for the Bahamas. Not a day passes that we do not express our appreciation for the opportunity to experience this life with the joy of being on the water in gorgeous scenery, the connection with nature, the pleasure of time with family and friends. We only wish such happiness for all of you.