Georgia & the Carolinas – M/Y Quite Nice

Note: It took us awhile to wrap up this post. We were in progress updating when we experienced hurricane Isaias. We still want to document and share our trip to that point. More on the storm and aftermath later.

Another milestone as we leave Florida, a large section of the Loop on its own, and cross the state line into Georgia. The Intracoastal Waterway through Georgia and South Carolina twists and turns, one minute the boat is heading west, the next east. It really does require both of us to navigate, watching for channel markers ahead as well as monitoring the Garmin chartplotter and Aquamaps app on our phones. All it takes is a brief moment of inattention and the boat can be out of the channel and aground. Even when on a stretch that allows for using the autopilot, the helmsman is continuously monitoring the depth finder, the chartplotter, and what is seen visually.

The extensive coast line of Florida is a big section of the Loop and crossing the state line into Georgia felt like a milestone to us.

Days 159 – 162, July 2 – 5, Jekyll Island, GA

Jekyll Island is considered by many the most beautiful island on the US Atlantic coast. In the late 19th century, it was established as a resort get away for the extremely wealthy. In the early 20th century, the likes of J.P. Morgan, Rockefeller, and Vanderbilt had homes on the island. It is the place where they along with a couple of Senators met and conspired to create the Federal Reserve Bank but that is a story for another day and we tried not to let that piece of history interfere with our appreciation of the beautiful scenery. The very low level of traffic allowed us to hop on our bikes and explore the quiet roads through the village.

When I went to tidy the lines after we were underway, found a stowaway lounging on the deck. Guess he must have climbed up a line or the power cord from the dock to the deck of the boat. I managed to return him to the water at least.

My carefree glamour look at Jekyll Island.

The resort at Jekyll Island where the wealthiest of the wealthy played.

On the route to Jekyll Island we passed Cumberland Island which a herd of wild horses call home.

We enjoyed riding our bikes thru the village with dedicated paths with no vehicles.

The seashore at Jekyll Island was particularly beautiful and easy to see why those who could afford any location chose this one.

The tides in this area were the most extreme we had experienced; 5-7 feet. That steep ramp at low tide would be level at high tide. The waters edge would be all the way up into the grasses.

Days 163 – 165, July 6 – 8, Brunswick, GA

Brunswick Landing marina has a reputation for its abundant social life. A marina community room is usually the daily center for happy hour celebrations and meeting up with other boaters. Due to ‘Rona, those activities had been cancelled. We did explore the historic district and enjoyed some quiet time.

The historic district of Brunswick was a bit of a ghost town. We were hoping for them that we were simply off season or seeing the (hopefully temporary) impact of shutdowns.

Day 166, July 9, New Teakettle Creek

The trip from Brunswick to Savannah was longer that we wanted to try in a day so we broke up the journey with an overnight anchorage in New Teakettle Creek. The only sign of civilization was one far distant light we could make out. Quiet serene.

Nothing for miles as we pull into the New Teakettle Creek to anchor. It may look like we are about to anchor in the middle of a waterway but we are off the ICW and did not see one other boat for many hours or the entire time we were in the creek.

It was a glorious sunset and a most relaxing evening. We have become quite enamored with anchoring as an alternative to marinas.

Day 167 – 173, July 10 – 16, Savannah, GA

So much can be said for the beauty, charm and hospitality of Savannah. After the quiet in Brunswick and Teakettle, we decided to generate as much social activity as we could. We managed to have docktails with the crew of Nectar with whom we had crossed paths in Marathon. Then dinner with harbor hosts, the Moore’s. We had met Wes and Amanda Dorman of Honey Queen when we were sharing the same dock in Marathon. Honey Queen had crossed her wake and completed the loop just weeks before. They, too, are harbor hosts and generously provided us with transportation for shopping and errands as well as sharing some of the amazing restaurants of Savannah. One of the great joys of traveling the Great Loop is time spent with other boaters. There is always the shared interest and no end of conversation with stories of the adventure. In the city, we took a guided tour. It is a city rich in history with so much to see.

Loved the view from our slip at Isle of Hope marina.

This was one of the more spectacular homes on the waterway. Such a contrast to those in Florida.

Loved the history and sites while touring Savannah.

Days 174 – 176, July 17 – 19, Beaufort, SC

Lady’s Island Marina wasn’t our first choice but the city marina was booked full in anticipation of the annual Water Festival which of course was cancelled due to covid. As things always work our for us, we LOVED Lady’s Island. The setting was lovely and the owner/manager was extremely gracious and helpful. A superb restaurant right on site and a courtesy car readily available. While it isn’t as convenient to downtown, the use of the car made downtown accessible to us.

The journey from Savannah to Beaufort took us over another state line from Georgia into South Carolina.

Lady’s Island marina had a very popular restaurant on site. That is the marina in the background. Always grateful when there is good dining this accessible.

Downtown had loads of shops and dining. Loved this window sign.

This park on the waterfront had a number of plaques which gave a nice overview of the history of the area.

A great attraction is always discovering great food. This restaurant featured an especially charming patio which we took advantage of.

Admiring a gracious waterfront home as we leave Beaufort, SC, in the early morning light.

Days 177 – 180, July 20 – 23, Charleston, SC

What can one say about Charleston that hasn’t already been said. It is one of the most beautiful, charming, historic cities in the US. We took a Gray Line tour (nice air conditioned mini-bus during record breaking heat) and much enjoyed seeing the sites and hearing the history. Next was lunch at Magnolia’s, one of Charleston’s most highly rated restaurants and a very special treat. Finally, we had the great privilege of meeting a local harbor host, Dr. Jerry Reves, who had grown up in the historic district of Charleston and knew its every building. He graciously shared a visit at the Carolina Yacht Club. The CYC was established in 1853 and is the quintessential yacht club. I tried to imagine the conversations that have been had, the occasions that have been celebrated, the deals that have been made and the tales that have been told in its walls.

Charleston prides itself on the strict regulation of homes in the historic district. This one caught my attention.,

I found a great bead shop and did my duty to spend some tourist dollars there. It is unfortunate that internet shops (topped off with forced closing for covid) are putting locally owned shops like these out of business.

No doubt a highlight of our loop experience will be our visit to the historic Carolina Yacht Club. We enjoyed cocktails on the upper deck with a view of Charleston Harbor and Fort Sumter in the distance.

Jerry Reves was so generous to share his time and provide us a visit at the CYC. On display is a model of the boat on which he and his wile completed the Great Loop.

Experienced some extreme tide changes in this area. Georgia and the Carolinas are notorious with boating cruisers for their extreme tides and currents.

Had the good fortune of lunch at Magnolia’s; one of my most favorite restaurants anyplace in the country.

One last view of the historic Charleston Battery as we cruise out.

Days 181 – 183, July 24 – 29, Georgetown, SC

Harborwalk Marina was our temporary home in Georgetown and was set right in the heart of the historic old town. Quaint buildings, several good restaurants, cute shops and all right at our doorstep.

As we neared Georgetown, we ran into the heaviest weather we had traveled through. Never any real danger but a bit intense. Peter did a great job at the helm while I navigated. Good news was the wind and rain had passed just before we arrived at the dock so we did not have to deal with it there.

The storm clouds just before the downpour. You can see the choppy waves building up. Had to switch off my camera to concentrate on navigating about this point.

The peace and quiet of a lovely marina as the storm moves away in the background.

One of those sunsets we relish. This is actually facing east with the gorgeous colors on the clouds

Peter decided to do a some work on the teak while we were stopped here.

The historic downtown was just a few steps away with many good restaurants and some excellent shopping.

Surprised at how much there was to see and do here.

Like most all of these towns along the Atlantic seaboard, there is an abundance of history from the early settlements in the 1600’s, thru the American Revolution and the Civil War. Especially touching at a time when some would chose to obliterate our history throwing out the baby with the bath water. Yes, there are “dirty” parts but also much richness to be admired.

We were able to take our bikes and ride on the residential streets with these stunning oaks and lovely homes. Very unpretentious.

Days 184 – 185, July 27 – 28, Murrells Inlet, SC

What a delightful surprise! There are many different styles of cruising. We are discovering our personal preferences and the factors that make cruising most pleasurable for us. One thing we have discovered is our preference for smaller marinas where the owners are likely to be onsite and personally involved. Wacca Wache marina was just that. Set on the Waccamaw River with its black water and majestic cypress trees lining the banks, Wacca Wache has a definite charm. In addition, we were fortunate to spend time with the local Harbor Hosts, Tom and Brenda, crew of “Kissed Some Frogs”. We had met them briefly when we were on the same dock in Marathon, FL. They were most generous with their time, information, transportation, and Brenda’s killer Blondies. The river is so secluded as to make us think there was nothing and no one around for miles. Another surprise – Murrels Inlet is very near Myrtle Beach and has an abundance of great restaurants and all the shopping one could ask for.

Along here, the ICW is through the Waccamaw River. One of the most beautiful sections of the Loop we have seen.

Along the river the osprey love to nest on the channel markers. As the boat approaches the momma bird will start screeching her warning to stay away from her nest.

Thanks to the generosity of Tom & Brenda, we had a chance to visit Brookgreen Gardens with an amazing array of huge sculptures and awesome gardens.

One of the advantage of visiting with locals is discovering the “stories”. This boat anchored near the marina had a particularly poignant one with an owner who built her then became too ill to fulfill his dream of cruising her. She has been purchased by the Windstar Cruises and may have a glamorous future yet.

Most of the photos of myself that I’m willing to post are a bit more glamorous. This is the honest look at the end of a cruising day; the most comfortable clothes I have, boat hair, no makeup, no jewelry but a smile of total contentment watching the river from an upper deck.

An early morning departure and the peaceful charm of a most delightful marina.

Days 186 – 191, July 29 – Aug 3, Southport, NC

We had planned to make another stop between Wacca Wache and Southport but there was no perfect stop and with (at that time) Tropical Storm Isaias brewing in the Caribbean, we elected to get to a location we felt would offer more resources if needed. We needed an early morning start both for the distance and because we would be passing thru the dreaded Rockpile with a desire to time the tides to our advantage.

Crossing another state line from South Carolina into North.

The corp of engineers blasted a 15 mile stretch of canal thru the solid granite. It is narrow and there are rocks underwater on either edge. Before entering this stretch of canal one checks by radio for any oncoming traffic as passing another vessel can be dangerous. Most cruisers want a low tide so the rock ledges can be seen. We came through just fine but it definitely added to the element of adventure.

Others had been less fortunate. And, yes, someone took advantage to make a political statement.

Mostly, the trip from Wacca Wache was a beautiful and relaxed cruise arriving on Wed afternoon.

We took some time to tour around Southport. That is the marine you can see a bit of in the background.

There was a hurricane headed our direction so we prepped as best we could with extra lines and fenders. The floating docks should allow for the predicted 2-4 foot surge and forecasts were for the storm to lessen maybe even down to tropical storm status before coming ashore.

Cushions and isenglass removed and stored below.

Peter helped our friend Robert Creech move his sailboat from a spot in front of his home over to the marina where both of our trawlers were moored.

We gave her a hug feeling we had done the best we could for what was predicted and headed to the Creech’s home for the night.

The front porch of the home of Robert and Kay Creech is a must stop for Loopers passing through Southport. They were named Harbor Hosts of the Year for 2019 and it is a well earned title. Their generosity and hospitality knows no bounds. We spent most of the afternoon before the storm watching the forecasts and sharing tales as neighbors, friends and family stopped in to see how we all were progressing. They had insisted we would spend the night at their home rather than on the boat.