There is a lot of Louisiana to cross along the Gulf Coast. There is very little boat traffic similar to ours at this time of year. The Gulf Intracoastal Waterway on this stretch is heavily used by tow boats pushing barges and there is considerable petrochemical industry and related commerce along the shore. Aside from that there are miles and miles of wetlands with no sign of humanity in sight; a very peaceful space to enjoy. With just the low hum of the engines it is almost a meditative quality. The autopilot gets switched on and we can lean back and relax for a bit.
Day 7, Nov. 9
The day started at 2:00 am. At 3:00 we were joined by Captain Darrell Walker and his wife Cher. They own Blue Star Marine in Lake Charles. Their primary business is providing commercial services but were sympathetic to our situation and agreed to take us thru the Calcasieu Lock in the dark. The lock has been undergoing repairs and in a push to complete them is only open from 6:00 pm to 6:00 am. We are just too inexperienced with the needed local knowledge to tackle this night time trip thru a complex intersection of waterways and commercial barge traffic. (especially as we were docked in Lake Charles and would have had to come down the Calcasieu River in the dark with no radar as well). Darrell made the trip pleasurable and educational. The early start allowed us to go all the way to Shell Morgan landing at Intracoastal City, LA.
Day 8, Nov 10
Next stop Morgan City. Pretty uneventful passage and we were all set up to dock at the City Docks but on contacting VTC (traffic control) they suggested that we dock at Berwick, across the river from Morgan City on account of heavy shoaling.
So, next stop, tied up to a dock at a city park in Berwick, LA. instead.
No facilities but an easy and safe docking.
Day 9 – 12, Nov 11 – 14
To Houma, LA, and another city park dock. There was a cold front coming thru with wind and rain and cold, as in 27 degrees; any one of which would justify a bit of a layover. Plus it was time to do some housekeeping and shopping. So many claim that the loop is about the people you meet. The shared experience makes for quick friends and we had our first taste of that. A dear local couple, Alexis and Berwick Duval, had completed the loop in 2014. They graciously picked us up and shared an evening and dinner out. They were a wealth of knowledge for cruising in general and cruising the mid-Gulf Coast in particular. We made our first Uber trip for shopping at Walmart, a practical choice for groceries and wide range of needs. We were quite comfortable in our cozy floating condo.
Day 13, Nov 15
A lovely cruising day through a beautiful area of southern Louisiana.
Boomtown Casino. The strategy is get as close as you can to the Harvey Lock in New Orleans so that the trip thru that lock, five miles on the Mississippi River, then thru the lock on the Industrial Canal, can be done in a day allowing for delays at the locks. The casino is only the landmark, it provides no facilities but is the usual stop of choice for cruisers headed east. There are remnants of some sort of seawall along the shore; chunks of concrete with bits of rebar sticking out, strips of rusty iron, thankfully the stub of one old bollard. Wind and current made coming up to the wall a challenge then locating a place to tie a line another. Not our favorite stop but it is behind us and we are headed into New Orleans.
Day 14, Nov 16
We have traveled thru several locks but they are locks designed to keep the salt water of the GIWW out of the fresh water marshes. Now we encounter with some trepidation, our first “real” lock that will take us to the higher water level of the Mississippi River. A new experience with potential for difficulties. Actually, we had no troubles, transiting on our own, with little delay on arrival.
I do most of the radio communication with the tows, bridges and locks because Peter says that he only understands English. I was quick to let the lock masters know it was our first time thru their lock and they were kind in giving us simple instructions.
Traveling the five miles of the Mississippi River was exciting. The river is a fast current with whirls and eddies. We were surprised at the depths of the water at 150 feet and more. Our first time cruising thru a big city. Lovely to see the downtown skyline from the water as well a a brief view of the French Quarter.
After a quick run down the river, we entered the Industrial lock which took us back into the GIWW again. This time we had to tie up to a brand new cruiser which was being delivered to a local yacht yard.
Once again, the lock master was most helpful.
Arrived at Seabrook Harbor Marina just off Lake Ponchatrain on the Industrial Canal. A comfortable spot where we will sit for a few days. We want to relax, plan the next few legs of the trip and have a few repairs done. A cruising boat seems to be a constant list of what needs to be fixed next.
Day 15, Nov 17
New Orleans. A stop here would not be complete without a visit to the French Quarter and a taste of her famous food. Gorgeous fall weather for strolling thru the Quarter. Timed it perfectly to see a very entertaining group of street performers. Their skill at drawing in a crowd and garnering donations was as entertaining as the performance itself. The show was filled with lots of positive commentary on the current social scene as it relates to diversity of race, religion, and economics.
Comments
I hope this is giving you a flavor of what we are experiencing. We are still working on developing our confidence when docking and maneuvering in close quarters but that is improving. The loss of the bow thruster a week ago helped sharpen our skills – back to basics.
Planning the next segment is taking a bit more time and effort than I anticipated but that will likely come together and smooth out as well. It is already much better than the first week. The motto might be “expect the unexpected” – like much lower than normal temperatures and the boatyard being shut down today while the power company replaces lines coming into the yard. The newbie jitters are receding as we get into the pace and routine of cruising. Bottom line: grateful for the adventure in life that we are living.
Pictures of IWW remind me of the magical feelings I had spending 9 months on 90 foot boat back in 1960 in and out of the Mississippi, eating poboys, living onboard. Congratulations on y’all’s adventure. The smell of diesel, learning to tie knots and the radio talk…over.
Know what Peter means when he says he only understands English. The deep Cajun accent is challenging. What an adventure – better than the PBS epics!