Note: It took us awhile to wrap up this post. We were in progress updating when we experienced hurricane Isaias. We still want to document and share our trip to that point. More on the storm and aftermath later.
Another milestone as we leave Florida, a large section of the Loop on its own, and cross the state line into Georgia. The Intracoastal Waterway through Georgia and South Carolina twists and turns, one minute the boat is heading west, the next east. It really does require both of us to navigate, watching for channel markers ahead as well as monitoring the Garmin chartplotter and Aquamaps app on our phones. All it takes is a brief moment of inattention and the boat can be out of the channel and aground. Even when on a stretch that allows for using the autopilot, the helmsman is continuously monitoring the depth finder, the chartplotter, and what is seen visually.
Days 159 – 162, July 2 – 5, Jekyll Island, GA
Jekyll Island is considered by many the most beautiful island on the US Atlantic coast. In the late 19th century, it was established as a resort get away for the extremely wealthy. In the early 20th century, the likes of J.P. Morgan, Rockefeller, and Vanderbilt had homes on the island. It is the place where they along with a couple of Senators met and conspired to create the Federal Reserve Bank but that is a story for another day and we tried not to let that piece of history interfere with our appreciation of the beautiful scenery. The very low level of traffic allowed us to hop on our bikes and explore the quiet roads through the village.
Days 163 – 165, July 6 – 8, Brunswick, GA
Brunswick Landing marina has a reputation for its abundant social life. A marina community room is usually the daily center for happy hour celebrations and meeting up with other boaters. Due to ‘Rona, those activities had been cancelled. We did explore the historic district and enjoyed some quiet time.
Day 166, July 9, New Teakettle Creek
The trip from Brunswick to Savannah was longer that we wanted to try in a day so we broke up the journey with an overnight anchorage in New Teakettle Creek. The only sign of civilization was one far distant light we could make out. Quiet serene.
Day 167 – 173, July 10 – 16, Savannah, GA
So much can be said for the beauty, charm and hospitality of Savannah. After the quiet in Brunswick and Teakettle, we decided to generate as much social activity as we could. We managed to have docktails with the crew of Nectar with whom we had crossed paths in Marathon. Then dinner with harbor hosts, the Moore’s. We had met Wes and Amanda Dorman of Honey Queen when we were sharing the same dock in Marathon. Honey Queen had crossed her wake and completed the loop just weeks before. They, too, are harbor hosts and generously provided us with transportation for shopping and errands as well as sharing some of the amazing restaurants of Savannah. One of the great joys of traveling the Great Loop is time spent with other boaters. There is always the shared interest and no end of conversation with stories of the adventure. In the city, we took a guided tour. It is a city rich in history with so much to see.
Days 174 – 176, July 17 – 19, Beaufort, SC
Lady’s Island Marina wasn’t our first choice but the city marina was booked full in anticipation of the annual Water Festival which of course was cancelled due to covid. As things always work our for us, we LOVED Lady’s Island. The setting was lovely and the owner/manager was extremely gracious and helpful. A superb restaurant right on site and a courtesy car readily available. While it isn’t as convenient to downtown, the use of the car made downtown accessible to us.
Downtown had loads of shops and dining. Loved this window sign. 
Days 177 – 180, July 20 – 23, Charleston, SC
What can one say about Charleston that hasn’t already been said. It is one of the most beautiful, charming, historic cities in the US. We took a Gray Line tour (nice air conditioned mini-bus during record breaking heat) and much enjoyed seeing the sites and hearing the history. Next was lunch at Magnolia’s, one of Charleston’s most highly rated restaurants and a very special treat. Finally, we had the great privilege of meeting a local harbor host, Dr. Jerry Reves, who had grown up in the historic district of Charleston and knew its every building. He graciously shared a visit at the Carolina Yacht Club. The CYC was established in 1853 and is the quintessential yacht club. I tried to imagine the conversations that have been had, the occasions that have been celebrated, the deals that have been made and the tales that have been told in its walls.
Days 181 – 183, July 24 – 29, Georgetown, SC
Harborwalk Marina was our temporary home in Georgetown and was set right in the heart of the historic old town. Quaint buildings, several good restaurants, cute shops and all right at our doorstep.
As we neared Georgetown, we ran into the heaviest weather we had traveled through. Never any real danger but a bit intense. Peter did a great job at the helm while I navigated. Good news was the wind and rain had passed just before we arrived at the dock so we did not have to deal with it there.
Days 184 – 185, July 27 – 28, Murrells Inlet, SC
What a delightful surprise! There are many different styles of cruising. We are discovering our personal preferences and the factors that make cruising most pleasurable for us. One thing we have discovered is our preference for smaller marinas where the owners are likely to be onsite and personally involved. Wacca Wache marina was just that. Set on the Waccamaw River with its black water and majestic cypress trees lining the banks, Wacca Wache has a definite charm. In addition, we were fortunate to spend time with the local Harbor Hosts, Tom and Brenda, crew of “Kissed Some Frogs”. We had met them briefly when we were on the same dock in Marathon, FL. They were most generous with their time, information, transportation, and Brenda’s killer Blondies. The river is so secluded as to make us think there was nothing and no one around for miles. Another surprise – Murrels Inlet is very near Myrtle Beach and has an abundance of great restaurants and all the shopping one could ask for.
Days 186 – 191, July 29 – Aug 3, Southport, NC
We had planned to make another stop between Wacca Wache and Southport but there was no perfect stop and with (at that time) Tropical Storm Isaias brewing in the Caribbean, we elected to get to a location we felt would offer more resources if needed. We needed an early morning start both for the distance and because we would be passing thru the dreaded Rockpile with a desire to time the tides to our advantage.
There was a hurricane headed our direction so we prepped as best we could with extra lines and fenders. The floating docks should allow for the predicted 2-4 foot surge and forecasts were for the storm to lessen maybe even down to tropical storm status before coming ashore.
The front porch of the home of Robert and Kay Creech is a must stop for Loopers passing through Southport. They were named Harbor Hosts of the Year for 2019 and it is a well earned title. Their generosity and hospitality knows no bounds. We spent most of the afternoon before the storm watching the forecasts and sharing tales as neighbors, friends and family stopped in to see how we all were progressing. They had insisted we would spend the night at their home rather than on the boat.
Next Episode – the hurricane and its aftermath.