This has been a most difficult post to begin. It isn’t that we have been that busy post-Isaias for the time has been mostly waiting, it just isn’t as much fun to share as the usual cruising. We had promised ourselves we would take any eventuality as part of the adventure and we knew weather is always a risk on the water. We are smart enough to prepare for potential dangers but perhaps we were overly optimistic.
Day 191 – 194, Aug 3 – 6, Southport, NC
Downgraded to a tropical storm then up again to a Cat 1 hurricane. Most of the locals were downplaying the potential severity. Peter and I had both experienced hurricanes with boats, some with more potential for danger than Isaias appeared to have. We prepared the best we could and went to spend the night with our friends. Robert and Kay Creech. We took our computers and an overnight bag, anticipating returning to the boat for clean-up the next day.
Of course, we were pretty well glued to the TV watching the weather reports. About 7:00 we were having dinner when the weatherman pointed to a spot on the map saying there was a tornado, Just as Kay says, “that’s here”, all heck broke loose outside. Their yard is filled with gorgeous old oak trees and 6-inch limbs were being snapped off and thrown like missiles. About 9:00 the hurricane started to come ashore. The radar showed us to be exactly on the eye-wall, northeast corner, the absolute worst possible location. The house literally vibrated from the force of the wind and rain as we hunkered down in an inside room. About midnight, the worst seemed to be over, exhaustion got the best of us and we were able to sleep for a bit.
We were up about 6:00 (Tues, the 4th) mostly surveying the immediate damage to the trees. Gratefully, the Creech’s home had no damage but, as to be expected, we were without power. Clever Creech’s have a generator so at least we could have hot coffee, charge computers and phones, etc. We were walking toward the marina when Kay’s phone rang. One of the young men in their family works with the fire department. He was calling to let her know the marina had been destroyed. No way we could prepare ourselves for what we were about to witness. There was law enforcement everywhere, for which we were grateful. Robert, being an old-timer in the area and knowing the chief of police who was on site, was able to get us a few minutes but it was difficult to see anything in the massive jumble of boats and docks. We were especially grateful there was no damage (except the trees) to the Creech’s home, grateful for their hospitality, and grateful that none we knew of were injured.
That is Quite Nice on the dock behind the dock house. We were grateful to be on the outer edge. 
We could see her but could not get to her.
There had been a combination of factors. The storm arrived at high tide; it was a king tide at the full moon; the storm surge, of course; and perhaps some design or engineering flaw with the marina.
The next three days we paced the floor and streets anxious to get to the boat. It was chaos with little information. Friends from Houston, Simon and Linda Hameka on Indigo Seas, had been further south and arrived on Thurs to see what help they could give us. We were able to travel in their dinghy to get a closer look from the water side and by now we were seeing aerial photos but still could not get to or on our boat. The marina management called in a recovery operation but it was Friday before we could get to Quite Nice.
Day 195, Aug 7, Back on the boat, leaving Southport, and on to Wilmington, NC
The recovery team ferried us to the boat, pulled us out of the wreckage, and turned us over to be towed. There was a “glitch” in the electrical system so we were towed from Southport to Bridge Tender Marina on the ICW in Wilmington, NC. We still had our overnight bags at the Creech’s house so the Hameka’s picked those up and brought them to us at Bridge Tender. We had zero food in the fridge as there had been no electric for 4 days and the batteries had run all the way down but we kept managing.
We had been hopeful that our location on the outer edge would minimize the damage. Unfortunately, she still got a pretty good beating. Our decision to leave the bimini on was not the best (as the gentleman preparing a replacement said, “what part of ‘hurricane’ didn’t you understand?”). In front of us on the dock was a large steel-hulled trawler with an huge bow pulpit and oversized anchor. That extension jammed into our deckhouse breaking the windows and support, damaging the joint of the deck and hull, and tangling with the handrail to the point that the crew had to cut it loose.
Our first look. 
The steel hull boat we tangled with.
The binimi frame. Not a thread of the bimini left. 
Lost the dingy cover but grateful the dinghy was still there with little damage.
Making the exit as she is being guided out of the rubble. 
Our tow out of Southport Marina to Bridge Tender Marina. The engine electrical was not yet working properly.
Day 196-204, Aug 8 – 16, Beaufort, NC
Hundreds of boat owners had been calling marinas and boatyards for 100 miles as there were so many damaged and one needed a destination as soon as one’s boat was removed from the marina. With good recommendations, we headed to Jarrett Bay Boatyard in Beaufort. Peter had resolved the electrical question to the point we felt we could travel this next leg on our own. It was still August and we had no bimini for protection from the sun so we were driving from the lower helm which was a new experience but a good one. It increased our confidence that we now had additional experience operating our boat. We were especially grateful that there was little damage on the interior and that the mechanicals and running gear were operating well. Our one short conversation with the project manager at Jarrett Bay convinced us that they really were not interested in our job. No doubt they do great work but they apparently had lots of it and we were feeling slightly brushed off. No hard feelings as we are always confident anything that looks like a set-back is for the best in the big picture. Even though we decided fairly quickly we would not be getting the work done at that location, we waited here for an insurance surveyor to come look at the damage, made plans for another boatyard, and waited out some stormy weather. We did get to see the launch of a $10M mega offshore fishing boat they had build which is their specialty.
Boaters are the best kind of people. There is an instant camaraderie and support network that is rare to find in today’s world. Friends who knew we were headed to Jarrett Bay called other friends who were there having work done. They called ahead and offered to pick up groceries for us which were desperately needed. We were warmly greeted and gifted with some additional fruit and goodies from the local farmer’s market. There was a courtesy car available which allowed for more grocery shopping and even getting out to explore the area a bit.
We started to feel a bit of returning to normalcy tied up at a dock with a charming view, started to clean up a little of the debris on the decks and even got the gaping holes somewhat secured.
With lots of research we determined that the Atlantic Yacht Basin in Chesapeake, VA, would be a good location for our repairs. It would be about 150 miles and 4 days of travel on the water so we headed off again. It wasn’t our usual cruising. One doesn’t see the scenery the same way driving from the lower helm inside the deck house but were were determined to make the best of it.
Day 205, Aug 17, Belhaven, NC
There are two significant inlet crossings in the area. We took the first, Pamlico Sound with no difficulties. Belhaven is a charming area and we loved the Dowry Creek marina. Would have loved spending more time here under different circumstances.
Day 206, Aug 18, Alligator River, NC
Tiny marina that is an adjunct to a convenience store. The Hameka’s on Indigo Seas caught up with us again and we enjoyed cocktails together on the boat. Probably would skip the marina and just anchor here next go round.
Day 207, Aug 19, Coinjock, NC
Coinjock isn’t a fancy marina but it is a popular stop for ICW cruisers and there is a well known restaurant on site which is always welcoming to boaters. We had not eaten off the boat in several days and it was a welcome opportunity.
Day 208 – until…, Aug 20 – until…, Chesapeake, VA
As I write, we have been at Atlantic Yacht Basin 55 days. We decided we were not interested in returning south to Florida again so soon. As the repairs would likely take until the end of the season for cruising any further north, we decide we would store the boat here for the winter (there is good covered storage for protection from snow and ice) and return in the spring to continue north. The yard has been a little slow in getting started but the repairs are now underway and we can see progress. We had thought we might leave to head back to TX earlier but have discovered we are more confident being here where we can watch what is happening and keep pushing a departure off another week and then another. We’ve heard too many stories from other owners about leaving a boat for months only to return with none of the work done. It isn’t just an issue here, boatyards everywhere are notorious for slow progress. One must push ever so gently as there isn’t another reputable facility just around the corner. We often feel we are dancing on a tightrope.
For now, the boat is in the water in a work shed. We are able to stay on board so we have the comfort of “home” although we do miss having daylight and a view. There are several great restaurants and a good grocery in easy walking distance. We have made some great friends. Most afternoons at 5:00 those who desire social interaction gather under the trees for docktails. If someone is here with a car they are always generous in offering rides to the grocery or for errands, some even lending their cars. We have had dinner out with friends many times. The local Harbor Hosts, Ken and Linda Horton are so very gracious and we have been fortunate to spend time with them.
We have taken the time to explore the area like we would normally. We’ve been to Virginia Beach and Norfolk. Made a day trip to Jamestown, site of the first permanent British settlement in the early 1600’s with a great museum. Went to see the Dismal Swamp since we did not cruise that leg. Drove to visit Indigo Seas at their winter location in Edenton.
Atlantic Yacht Basin 
Hauling to inspect the bottom for any storm related damage.
Jamestown, replicas of the 3 ships that arrived there from Britain. 
Jamestown, caught a fabulous showing of marine and coastal art.
The Dismal Swamp, next time through. 
Time with Looper friends. Crews of Independence (local) and Magic, Rockport, TX.
Beautiful fall morning. 
Crossing another state line into Virginia.
The Big Break
Everyone’s Loop experience is different, of course. From our conversations, few people do it in one year. Most often there are interruptions for health or family matters. We knew ours would be at least two years as the Illinois River would be closed this fall. Covid and Isaias have altered our plans considerably but have not dimmed our spirit for the adventure. We may visit the boat between now and spring to check out the repairs but for sure we will be back late March to get her and ourselves ready to head north. Most Loopers leave this area between mid-April and mid-May and that will be our plan. There is much to catch up on back in Texas including our families, friends, and maintenance at home. We were away for the holidays last year and it will be good to be back with those we love for this season.